Ticino is a climbing paradise. The southernmost canton of Switzerland owes this, among other things, to its mild climate, the quality of the rock and the variety of styles and difficulties. Today we present the 10 most beautiful routes from 5b to 8c that you should try once in your life.
Ticino is very popular with climbers. And not without reason. Switzerland's sunniest place has some unbeatable arguments up its sleeve that speak in favor of a visit. Egon Bernasconi, author of the Tessin Rock climbing guide. He has put together the ultimate top ten for you: 10 climbing routes between 5b and 8c that you should have climbed or at least tried at least once in your life.
Ticino Top Ten:
- Tosty bacon II (5b), San Carlo Val Bavona, Holy Hole sector
- A sense (5c), Bosco Gurin, sector buoni o cattivi
- Pearls (6a), Denti della vecchia, Sector Spigolone destra
- Also le formiche nel loro piccolo s'inkazzano (6b), Sotalpizz, letamaio sector
- Flower power (6c), Brontallo, Sector El Cat
- The devil's claw (7a), Ponte Brolla, sector est
- Dracula (7b), Avegno, sector zio Fiasco
- Karmageddon (7c), Avegno, Underzero sector
- MissPuta (8a), Cevio, Goldensciaur sector
- Beautiful (8b), Cresciano
- K19 (8c), Chironico
Tosty bacon II (5b)
Holy Hole at the back of Valle Bavona is one of the most amazing and unusual new discoveries of recent years. The long, compact black wall is riddled with holes of all sizes: from one-finger holes to beer mugs. A highlight of this sector is the 25-meter line Tosty bacon II (5b).
Un senso (5c)
Bosco Gurin (1503 m) is the highest town in Ticino and an extremely diverse summer climbing area. In a glorious alpine setting you'll find friction climbs, technical walls, cracks and even a few overhangs. The rock quality is excellent throughout, including the 5c route Un senso.
Legend has it that in ancient times the Lugano area was ruled by an old witch with miraculous powers that hung on her large yellow tooth. One day, a human broke her tooth with a stone, defeating her forever. The big tooth fell out of her mouth and became a large rock needle. Over thousands of years, storms have hollowed out and broken the figure, turning it into many small teeth: Denti della Vechhia.
There is climbing on dolomite, there are routes for every taste: technical, athletic, long, short, flat, vertical or more or less overhanging. Perles (6a) in the Spigolone destra sector is an ingenious route lined with numerous scales that invite you to grab and stand.
Climbskin – Cream that gets under the skin
If your fingers have already worn out after the first classics on this list, then you really need to give them a pampering session. Our tip: Climbskin.
Climbskin is a special cream developed by climbers for climbers, which makes the skin of the fingers and calluses more elastic and resilient. A big plus of the cream: Climbskin can even be applied before climbing.
Climbskin was developed by climbing enthusiasts biologists, chemists and environmentalists with a love for nature. Animal experiments were of course taboo.
Also le formiche nel loro piccolo s'inkazzano (6b)
The Sotalpizz cliffs are a very worthwhile destination in summer as they are at 2300 meters. You are in a wonderful place, in a majestic position, the rock is mostly excellent and some routes simply have to be done.
Including Anche le formiche nel loro piccolo s'inkazzano (6b) in the Letamaio sector. Although only 14 meters long, the route is a great technical pitch that requires good standing.
flower power (6c)
Brontallo el Cat is one of the most famous winter climbing rocks in Ticino and is often just referred to as Brontallo because Terra Di Mezzo is rarely visited. Although the rock formation is at about 800 meters, it is sunbathed from 10 a.m. in the morning to 15.30 p.m. in the afternoon.
Flower power (6c) - the first of two pitches - starts out technically and turns into endurance climbing, where you can enjoy good grips and beautiful structures.
L'artlio del diavolo (7a)
Compared to the Rovine del Castelliere, the routes in Ponte Brolla Settore Est are much more athletic. In addition to a good dose of stamina, good technique is also required. A worthwhile line in this sector is L'artlio del diavolo. To warm up, there's a 6c, then follows the second pitch, which Egon Bernasconi simply describes as "wonderful".
The Zio Fiasco sector on the Avegno Torbeccio rocky outcrop is definitely worth a visit for its very varied climbing on slabs, vertical walls, technical intersections and slight overhangs.
Dracula is considered one of the most beautiful lines in the sector. At 30 meters, it offers athletic and at the same time technically demanding climbing.
All those looking for challenges of medium and high difficulty will really enjoy the Underzero sector in Avegno Torbeccio. Many of the most beautiful pitches are in the 8th grade. The quality of rock and routes is consistently high.
If you are in the seventh and eighth degree, you should definitely not miss Goldensciauar near Cevio. The rock, a compact reddish gneiss, is generally very grippy and pleasant and rewarding to climb. The almost always overhanging walls require stamina and endurance. MissPuta is no exception. A hidden pearl in perfect rock.
In the collective imagination of climbers around the world, the name Cresciano is firmly associated with boulders and blocks of the highest quality. Cresciano is simply the Mecca of the bouldering world.
Nevertheless, hidden in the chestnut woods, there are a considerable number of sectors with really excellent routes. Among them Beautiful (8b) in the sector of the same name. The line is one of the most beautiful in Ticino, as long as you can master the level of difficulty. 25 meters of climbing: varied, persistent and absolutely recommendable.
Chironico is primarily known for its numerous boulder problems. In the middle of this rocky landscape lies a gigantic boulder with an extremely impressive line. Those who can afford it - the route is rated 8c - have another must-do route with K19, which runs along the edge of the enormous block. Nicola Vonarburg was the first to climb the extremely aesthetic line in 2012.
That might interest you
- 8C+ first ascent in Ticino: Yannick Flohé boulders Return of the Dreamtime
- Climbing routes are systematically chipped in Ticino
- How to measure your finger strength with the Critical Force Test
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover photo Egon Bernasconi (www.rock-ways.ch)