Probably the hardest route in the Swiss Alps: Gran Paradiso (8c) on the Wendenstöcken

In September 2019, Jörg Andreas, Micha Schreiber and Jonathan Elter manage the first ascent of the Gran Paradiso route on the Wendenstöcken.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: The bolts of the route have been removed by local climbers. More details follow in a seperate article soon (16.10.2019).

A few days ago, the news from Jörg Andreas reached us that the Wendenstöcke to make a new and extremely difficult climb are richer. The route, called Gran Paradiso, is located in the Dom sector, to the left of the well-known route Zahir.

The key length of the Gran Paradiso route on the Wendenstöcken.
The key length of the Gran Paradiso route on the Wendenstöcken.

The team of three Jörg Andreas, Micha Schreiber and Jonathan Elter set up the route in the years 2018 and 2019 from below. A redpoint ascent of all lengths has so far only Jörg. Micha and Jonathan could not score all lengths yet.

"We thank the stable September weather, the nice cheese seller on the Wendenalp and the sleepy Swiss border guards for the friendly gesture towards the mountains."

Jörg Andreas for the first ascent of Gran Paradiso

Via the climbing route Gran Paradiso

With rope lengths in the degrees 6c +, 8a +, 8b, 8c, 8a +, 8b and 7b +, Gran Paradiso is probably one of the most difficult routes in the Swiss Alps.

Topo of the multi-pitch route Gran Paradiso at Wendenstöcken

Topo climbing Gran Paradiso turning sticks
Topo of the climbing route Gran Paradiso on the Wendenstöcken.

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Credits: Picture and Topo Jörg Andreas

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