The Swiss bouldering area Magic Wood is one of the most popular bouldering destinations in the world. Countless sectors and well over a thousand bouldering problems are scattered in the magical forest, waiting to be climbed. We present a list of the six most beautiful boulders in areas 5b to 7a.

In the abundance of bouldering problems it is difficult to orientate yourself. The Magic Wood Bloc bouldering guide from GEBRO-Verlag provides a remedy. Of the Leader comprises 1'213 boulders, a total of 260 problems more than its predecessor. As in the first edition, every line in the new topo is drawn on a color photo. An index of all bouldering problems at the end of the leader - both alphabetically and according to level of difficulty - which makes it easier to search for individual problems.

Heavy is the head that wears the crown

The guide at least simplifies orientation in the area. But which lines should visitors visit? Especially when visiting the area for the first time, it is difficult to decide which boulders to visit first. We recommend the following lines in the difficulty range 5b to 7a.

Recommendation number 1: "Wonderboy" (5b)


Recommendation number 2: "Smoking Squirrel" (6a +)


Recommendation number 3: "The beautiful" (6b)


Recommendation number 4: "Beach Arete" (6c)


A question of friction

In bouldering, details often decide between success and failure. Should the foot be turned slightly off the step or should it be frontal? Do you take the intermediate handle statically or do you catapult directly up to the handle?

In addition to technical aspects, friction is also often decisive. In addition to the right temperature and humidity, chalk or magnesium comes into play here. The choice is huge. "High-end chalk" from manufacturers such as Frictionlabs and Tokyo Powder or a base layer of liquid chalk so that the “normal” chalk sticks to the fingertips for longer.

Chalk from the American manufacturer FrictionLabs.
Chalk from the American manufacturer FrictionLabs.

Recommendation number 5: Boulder "U-Boot" (6c)


Recommendation number 6: Boulder "Enterprise" (7a)


Boulder mats for blocked jumping areas

The Magic Wood bouldering area is not only known for its countless bouldering problems, but also for its blocked jump area. Unlike many sectors in Fontainebleau, with flat, sandy subsoil, in Magic Wood there are many rocks under the actual boulder lines.

A good boulder mat (crash pad) is therefore important. We tested different models (see link to article below). We recommend at least one larger crash pad, for example this one Cirro from Petzl or Mondo from Black Diamond, for a trip to the area.

About Bächli mountain sports

Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist shop for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. Currently offering 13 locations in Switzerland Bächli mountain sports its customers expert advice and high quality service. Bächli mountain sports regularly publishes articles on climbing and bouldering in collaboration with LACRUX.

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