Silvan Schüpbach and Tim Marklowski, in collaboration with the Swiss Alpine Club, have issued a new climbing guide, which lists numerous Swiss Trad climbing areas. In today's post we introduce you to four spots.
A contribution by Tim Marklowski - Mountain Wilderness Switzerland
Climbing guide C (H) lean presents almost 65 areas in eight regions of Switzerland. These are great for learning and using climbing with friends, wedges and similar utensils. The selection ranges from granite to lime and from the drilled practice or "Greenpoint" climbing garden to the high alpine and committed clean route. Most of the areas described are located somewhere between the extremes and guarantee great experiences on the rock.
Zervreilahorn - The Matterhorn of Graubünden
The "Matterhorn Graubünden" is an absolute Trad-climbing mecca. It really does not get much better! The routes are mostly clean with drilled stalls. Drill hooks are where mobile protection is not possible. For fit and experienced climbers can be spoken of one of the best Swiss Trad areas ever. The rough and firm gneiss and the phenomenal appearance of the Zervreilahorn leave nothing to be desired. While the northeast ridge (5b) passes as a moderate tour, the routes in the SE wall challenge the complete climber. Nanouk (7a +) remains the hammer of the Horu, while Con Todo Guerrero (6c) is likely to be the self-securing test piece. Farther south in the wall, more moderate tours such as Atacama, Océano Naranjo or Cleopatra are waiting to be mobilized in large parts and - above all - to be enjoyed. At the foot of the Horn there is an established climbing garden, the routes of which also allow some "mobile pro".
Altmann: enjoyable tours on the east and west ridges
The Altmann in the Alpstein Mountains was not for nothing twice host of the keep wild! climbing days, There is something for everyone, from the daredevil type to the connoisseur. Some of the routes are completely furnished, but some are also almost clean (including pitches). The pleasure tours include the eastern and the western ridge, although here also mobile may be helped. The south wall routes are diverse: While, for example, the Old South Face (5c +) is gently renovated, the left south wall remains wild as ever. The Allegro ma non troppo (6c +) route is a high-tech plate crawler in which the stands themselves can be built. You can do everything yourself, for example, in the demanding new tours Bayerischer Sandmann (6a +, psycho) or Dr Füdläblut Wahnsinn (7b +, very psycho).
Le slow de l'été: An extreme classic in Lower Valais
The insider tip par excellence! 30 second approach, topfebener wall foot with golf turf and in addition an excellent rock quality. Despite the few routes, the selection is very large; whether with or without bolts, from heavy to light and even some cool boulders are there. The only smear is the wall height of a maximum of ten meters. Partially rainproof. For the Hardmover there is Percomaniac, a finger tear that has to be secured by itself or the extreme classic Le slow de l'été, which requires finger current. The easier routes are all very nice and may be completely secured yourself.
Grimselpass: Hotspot of the free-climbing movement
The Aaregranit on the Grimsel Pass was shaped by the largest cleaning service in the world: glaciers have sanded the granite round and smooth. In the 70 years, the Grimsel was a hotspot of the free-climbing movement - then the Yosemite Valley was the dream of all climbers and here was the perfect training ground: smooth, featureless granite. Unfortunately, the cracks are often overgrown. That's why most of the routes were opened on the compact plates and with bolts. In the last few years - in addition to the well-known Plaisir routes - Trad routes have also been opened or old routes have been renovated in the sense of Trad climbing. Grüner Heinrich (6c +), Steinbeisserweg (6c +) or Fair head line (6a +) are the names of the friend-friends. In addition, a Trad climbing garden was opened at the Grimsel Hospiz, which spoils the visitors with a short approach and splitter cracks.
About the new climbing guide C (H) lean
The selection guide presents climbing gardens and multi-pitch routes that are suitable for securing with wedges and friends. The area selection ranges from the long-established climbing garden to forgotten and "renatured" routes to freshly cleaned new creations.
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Credits: Pictures Silvan Schüpbach, Text Tim Marklowski