Apart from the sometimes still large amounts of snow in higher elevations, the time is ripe for longer climbs. For those who are worried about the hustle and bustle of the Salbit Westgrat, today we have an exciting and extremely worthwhile alternative in the central Uri Alps: a fantastic climbing tour on the Feldschijen.
A contribution by Ralf Gantzhorn - Bächli Bergsport
Hans Berger is a well-traveled alpinist. He knows the mountains of the world, is a mountain guide in all mountain groups in the Alps. And he was until the end of the summer 2017 Guardian on the Salbithütte in the central Uri Alps. Logically, that he loves and praises the two dream lines on his local mountain, the Salbitschijn. But he also knows about the popularity of the South Ridge in particular, which he praises himself as the "Symphony in Granite" in the highest tones. If you ask him for an alternative, the answer comes without hesitation: "Climb the west ridge on Feldschijen!"
"Feldschijen - never heard!" - That should probably be the most common comment, if you ask alpinists to the west ridge of Feldschijen. And I had no idea. "Where is the mountain at all?" Was my next question to Hans. From the terrace of his hut he points to a relatively inconspicuous ensemble of granite rocks on the south side of the Göscheneralp lake. And there should be a tour comparable to the south ridge of the Salbitschijns?
The approach separates the wheat from the chaff
The four of us set off to check the statements of the hutkeeper. Sonja and Simone as a strong female rope team, Alex and I as a male counterpart. What immediately falls into the eye as a difference to the salbit, or drives into the calves, is the approach. Full height 600 want to be overcome on a steep path before you can put your hand on the rock. A filter that has always separated the wheat from the chaff. So we are then even after two hours and a sweaty approach alone in the block below the ridge. Whereby our eyes are already searching the rock: Where is a climbable line? How can she be protected? Alex is the first to find the three bolts that secure the first pitch. The route guidance is unique. Spreizend and piazend he climbs up to the first stand directly on the ridge. That looks promising!
Foresight on ice, grass and granite
With the arrival of the burr, the concentrated view of the first climbing meter gives way for the first time to the vastness of the surroundings. The entire panorama of the central Uri Alps unfolds, a landscape consisting of the colors white, green and gray. Or translated: ice, grass and granite. Ice of still impressive proportions can be found on the Dammastock, with 3630 m the highest mountain in the wide circle. It was his glaciers or their meltwater that gave the starting signal for the construction of the Göscheneralpsee around 70 years ago. At the bottom of the turquoise green lake of the 1960 completed dam are still today the church tower of the former village Göscheneralp. At that time, its residents had been relocated to the hamlet of Gwüest, above the campground, which is so important for climbers today.
A perfect line in perfect granite
"Stand!" Calls Alex and I know that the next 30 or 40 meters will follow climbing pleasure. Because the ridge is pure enjoyment especially in the lower pitches, never heavier than the upper V degree he pulls himself to heaven. After a few shallower meters, where one can check his sense of balance prancing on the ridge, followed by a rope length, for which alone the entire route is worthwhile: the number 9! Fantastically exposed piazt here a vertical plate up, well secured with some bolts. Only at one point do you deviate for a few meters on the plate, otherwise you climb always directly to the only a few centimeters narrow edge. A dream of granite, even more beautiful and elegant climbing is not really.
Steep and overhanging key cable length
Also the key part of the entire tour in the 13. Rope length is, if you do not reach into the hook, a deep in the memory burying single point. Not quite as airy as the Piazschuppe, but steep and overhanging, the route leads through a narrow roof, which looks from the bottom once unkletterbar looks. But, as one old climbing friend said: "Everything dissolves". Grips and structure offer significantly more friction and grip than it first seems.
After about four hours we all reach the summit block, enter the exclusive summit book. The damp of the onset of rain can not take our good mood from our faces: The route is a dream. Opposite are the granite ridges of the Salbitschijns, wonderful to see. We're too far away to spot people, but it's not hard to imagine the crowding or the rope chaos of some overtaking maneuvers. If you are looking for a worthwhile alternative, you should listen to Hans Berger: "Climb the West Ridge on Feldschijen!"
Equipment
Which friends and wedges you need for the tour, is in each Topo. Here you find one Selection of mobile security devices.
How to get there
By train to Göschenen. From the station in Göschenen a bus goes up to the Göscheneralpsee.
Beste Zeit
The ideal climbing time begins when the sun has driven out the snow: June to September.
Leader
- Toni Fullin, Andi Banholzer, SAC leader Urner Alpen Bd. 2, SAC-Verlag 2010
- Jürg von Känel, Switzerland plaisir Ost, Edition Filidor (reprint 2012)
Cards
Swiss national map, 1: 25.000, sheet 1231 Urseren
Information
Andermatt-Urserntal Tourism GmbH
Gotthardstrasse 2
PO Box 247
6490 Andermatt
Tel: 41 41 8887100
www.andermatt.ch
Mountain guide (among others)
Hans berger
Gotthardstrasse 31a
6490 Andermatt
Tel: 41 41 8870060
www.salbit.ch
Or also at our partner mountain school: www.bergpunkt.ch
Cabins
Salbithütte, 2105 m, 3,5 hours from the train station in Göschenen via «Regliberg», open from mid-June to mid-October, 60 stores, Tel: + 41 / (0) 41/8851431, www.salbit.ch
Voralphütte, 2126 m, 5 hours from the Salbithütte (or 2,5 hours from the bus station in the Voralpkurve), open from mid-June to the end of September, 40 camps, Tel: + 41 / (0) 41 887 04 20, www.voralphuette.ch
Tours
Salbitschijn - south ridge (2981 m), crossing via Takala (8 SL, VI + (6- obl.)) And south ridge (12 SL, VI + (VI- obl.)), 1,0 h ascent, 5 - 7 hours for the ridge and 2 hours descent.
Salbitschijn - west ridge (2981 m), crossing over west ridge (32 SL, VII A1 (VI + obl.)), 12 - 16 hours for the ridge, 2 hours descent. The "Rolls Royce" among the granite ridges ".
Feldschijn - Tower III (2828 m), West Ridge (15 SL, VII (VI + obl.)), 2,5 Std. Approach, 4 Std. Ridge Climbing, 2 - 3 Std. Descent. Airy alternative to the south ridge with some grandiose piaze deposits. The key position (overhang) can also be overcome with hook assistance.
About Bächli mountain sports
Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist shop for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. Bächli Bergsport currently offers its customers expert advice and high-quality service at 11 locations in Switzerland. Published on LACRUX Bächli mountain sports at regular intervals exciting contributions to the topics of climbing and bouldering.