So far, the climbing stars Eric Talmadge, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos have been successful on the 9a route in the kingdom of the Shogun. The 19-year-old Philipp Geisenhoff wants to secure the fourth ascent of the Shogun. Actiontalk looks at him while projecting over his shoulders.
It is the time of spring awakening in the Basel Jura. The many limestone cliffs lie hidden in the woods with pleasant temperatures, whistling birds and with perfect grip. The routes here are not the highest, but they have it all.
It's all the more exciting to cling to the heels of a young climbing talent from the region: Philipp Geisenhoff is just 19 years old and is already very promising on the hardest nut of the Basel Jura: In the kingdom of the shogun (9a).
Adam Ondra with the first repetition of the route
The route was first reached by Eric Talmadge 2001, who pierced 1987 at Tüfletenfels. It took Thirteen long years for the shogun to be liberated. 2001 was one of the few 9a's ever, and when there was no repeat for a long time, 9a + whispered from behind their hand.
But then Adam Ondra It took him three days to get the route. His conclusion: a tough 9a, that was 2009. Then it took a long time until the next hand put on: Alex Megos 2017 secured the third ascent. Within a day, even in light rain, réussierte the German (LACRUX reported on the success of Alex Megos).
8c + variant already climbed
Philipp grew up in Dornach, not far from Tüflete. The shogun is practically behind his house. Early on he examined the wall in awe, he says. "Even when I was young and could not really do anything." Well, he's still young, but his climbing abilities have grown rapidly. Already he succeeded in the shortened version of the shogun, which is rated 8c +. The goal now is to attach Part 2 to the stick-hard key at the top.
“You arrive completely exhausted, because until then you have been climbing tiny holds, always overhanging and always under tension. And then you have to get a really tough pull starting from an underhand grip. "Philipp Geisenhoff
Actiontalk's camera crew wanted to help Philip and brought a nice, pink handle to keep things moving. But Philipp preferred that. The wrath of the shogun and the climbing scene in general would have been certain. We then took the handle back to the B2, where it belongs. The cult bouldering hall near Basel, one of the first in Europe, is Philipps training environment. Here he likes to stick to colorful handles. But only here.
Philipp wears this shoe when designing the shogun
The Tarifa of Tenaya suitable for routes of any steepness. From friction climbing to a steep overhang, the Tarifa climbing shoe offers the right level of support and sensitivity.
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Credits: Image and text Dominik Osswald