Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher climbed the Eiger route “Odyssey” in one day last summer. Actually, they wanted to be the first to do it - but then two Belgians thwarted their plans. The film shows sensitively and closely what defines the Eiger North Face - well worth seeing!
"The simpler lengths can be the bigger challenge on this wall," says Babsi Zangerl, getting to the point. Jacopo Larcher and Babsi had all the difficult lengths (up to 8a +) behind them, the exit on the western flank was within reach, even the sun was shining - "What we didn't realize was the thunderstorm that suddenly came around the corner."
What we didn't realize was the thunderstorm that suddenly came around the corner.
Babsi Zangerl
Although there was only about 100 meters of easier climbing waiting, the two had no choice but to blow to retreat. Her first attempt to complete the route in just one day had narrowly failed. In this video from Black Diamond we experience the Eiger North Face up close as it lives and breathes.
Belgians thwart plans
“It started to hail, the whole wall was covered in ice. I've never been so cold, just hooking the rope into the descender was difficult, ”says Babsi, describing the hair-raising retreat. To make matters worse, the rope was still hanging, but after some effort the couple made it safely to the Czech bivouac.
To make matters worse, the rope was still hanging, but after some effort the couple made it safely to the Czech bivouac.
It is obvious that afterwards the motivation to give another attempt was not exactly great. Although the two “Odyssey” had already climbed red point in 2018, they wanted to do the first one-day ascent of this route last summer.
But it didn't come to that, the two Belgians snatched this project from under their noses, which led to great disappointment, at least for Jacopo. On Instagram he wrote: "Never meet you childhood heroes, they gonna dissapoint you" - a message that was clearly addressed to Favresse.
Never meet you childhood heroes,
they will disappoint you.
Jacopo Larcher on Nico Favresse
In the BETA broadcast last September we asked Nico Favresse about it. The Belgian also spoke about the controversial devaluations that Berthe and he had made last summer after climbing various multi-pitch classics.
BETA broadcast about the Odyssey controversy with Favresse and Berthe
Information about the route Odyssee in the Eiger north face
Route: "Odyssey"
Preparation: 2009 to 2013 Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli
First ascent: Robert Jasper, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl - August 2015 - Team Rotpunkt Style
Character: Very serious high alpine big wall route in the Eiger north face
wall height: 1400 meters
Difficulty: 8a +
Itineraries History: Entry from the Eiger glacier 2320 meters to the foot of the wall and via the classic north face (Heckmair route, 1938) to the tunnel hole. Continue over the overhanging Rote Fluh and the Czech pillar to the exit at about 3700 meters (see topo!)
Fuse: sporty with rustproof M10 bolts and partly in trad style with hooks. Two sets of Camlots are used for further protection. In an emergency, it is advisable to take a hammer, 2-2 knife hooks and 3 peckers with you. (Expo to E2!)
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Credits: Cover picture Johannes Mair