Garnbret, Pilz & Mori secure Olympic ticket | Result final combined format women

In the final of the combined bouldering and lead format at the Sport Climbing World Championships in Bern, Janja Garnbret prevailed over Jessica Pilz and Ai Mori. For the three athletes, the podium is doubly valuable: In addition to their world champion titles, they can be sure of participating in the Olympics.

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The Sport Climbing World Championships in Bern are coming to an end and thus also to their climax. In the final of the combined format, the eight strongest athletes not only fought for the podium places, but also for the coveted three Olympic tickets for Paris 2024. The Slovenian Janja Garnbret secured gold, Jessica mushroom won silver and the newly crowned Lead World Champion Ai Mori double with a bronze medal after.

The moment Janja Garnbret realized she is the new combined format world champion and won an Olympic ticket. Image: Lena Drapella
The moment Janja Garnbret realized she is the new combined format world champion and won an Olympic ticket. Image: Lena Drapella

Garnbret, Pilz and Raboutou step on the gas while bouldering

Jessica Pilz got off to a fabulous start in bouldering and immediately let the other finalists know that she was to be reckoned with. For example, she was the first athlete to solve Boulder 1 and also topped Plate Boulder 2 in just a few attempts.

But of course the Austrian was not the only one who bouldered hard. It quickly became apparent that too Brooke Raboutou, Oriane Bertone or Miho Nonaka did well in the competition. Only one was better that evening: Janja Garnbret. The Slovenian topped all four final boulders in the usual manner. Remnants of her nasty fall in the semifinals were no longer visible.

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The Japanese Ai Mori collected 2 important points with her top on Boulder. For all other problems - the dynamic boulder 1, the brute boulder 3 or the coordination boulder 4 - she only collected zone points. But as we all know since last Sunday, the 19-year-old is a proven lead specialist.

The 19-year-old Japanese climbs towards the bronze medal in the combined format. Image: Lena Drapella
The 19-year-old Japanese climbs towards the bronze medal in the combined format. Image: Lena Drapella

Endurance put to the test

The Korean too Jain Kim is at home in rope climbing and demonstrated this in the lead in an impressive way. As the first to start, she immediately presented a decent benchmark with a 92.1. Jessica Pilz was able to catch up to the high point of the Korean, but did not get past it. Thanks to her generous cushion from bouldering, she took the lead in the intermediate classification.

The two bouldering specialists Miho Nonaka and Oriane Bertone climbed quickly, but both dropped shortly after the 30 mark with pumped arms. Since Brooke Raboutou also fell unexpectedly early from the 15 meter high wall, only Ai Mori and Janja Garnbret could influence the podium places.

The Japanese Miho Nonaka is happy about the top on Boulder 4, which is so important for her. Photo: Lena Drapella
The Japanese Miho Nonaka is happy about the top on Boulder 4, which is so important for her. Photo: Lena Drapella

Top lead show, even without a top

Reigning Lead World Champion Mori arrived in her deeply relaxed climbing style, where she seems to be glued to the wall - almost to the top. The dynamic pull on the last grip was too much for the Japanese.

Even Janja Garnbret couldn't reach the top of the lead route in the combined final. With the 84,9 points from bouldering, this wasn't necessary for the Slovenian - but of course she didn't know that at the time. It wasn't until the light show started as she was lowered that she realized that she was the new Combined World Champion and had her Olympic ticket in her pocket.

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Ranking final combined format women

1Janja THREAD177
2Jessica MUSHROOM157.1
3Hey MORI140.6
4Brooke RABOUTOU137.8
5Jain KIM106.2
6Oriana BERTONE93.8
7Miho NONAKA93.5
8Anastasia SANDERS69.7

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Credits: Cover photo Lena Drapella

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