Not only professional athletes try to climb impressive peaks in the shortest possible time. In today's post, Chris Moser tells you about his speed ascent on the Bietschhorn - also known as skyrunning - and shares important information for ambitious imitators.
An experience report by Chris Moser - Bächli Bergsport
After skyrunning style on the Matterhorn last year, I wanted to do the same with the Bietschhorn 3934m this summer. The mountain belonged roughly to the same category as the "Horu": 2500 meters of ascent from the valley floor, exposed climbing in the 3rd degree of difficulty, complex pathfinding in places. Max was immediately available for this project, and so we excitedly looked forward to the X day.
From the Lötschberg
Since the first train didn't go through the Lötschberg until 05:50 a.m., we didn't have to get out of bed that early. At the Bernina 4049m (Biancograt) a few weeks ago I had spent the night before. While we were driving up the Lötschental, we soon saw the Bietschhorn. Blue sky far and wide, but of all places the Bietschi was covered in clouds, great! However, it was still early in the morning and until we were up there a lot could change.
Shortly after half past six we finally started in Ried Pkt. 1486m. Down to Lonza and over the bridge, then follow the trail up to the Bietschhornhütte 2565m. We were only a little over an hour on the road and did not need a break. Following the trail and the white markings we climbed up to the Bietschjoch 3174m. Now it was time to take a break and get some food. It was not a bad place for it: sunny and warm, with great views of Mischabel and Weisshorn and of course the Bietschhorn 3934m Westgrat in its entirety, a pretty impressive appearance.
Sticks away, helmet on
Now we crossed the Bietsch Glacier in a left bend towards the foothills of the west ridge. That went just so without crampons, but you could also stride directly over the sheep bear 3240m and thus hardly set foot on the glacier. At the entrance of the west ridge, about 3150m, we deposited the sticks and put the helmet on the head, now it finally got down to business.
First it went over simple block terrain up to point 3408m. The following towers we went around on the south side in the rubble slope and brittle rock. From time to time we saw traces, so we were reasonably sure to be right. Back on the ridge, we stood in front of another, sharp towers. Climbing over these would be a bigger challenge. We had to get around this. In the southern flank, we saw some old tracks (in the snow), but this seemed too tricky. And we should be right. After looking for a possibility in the shady north side, we actually found some bolts and tracks, here it went on. Very confusing everything, and the Tour leader keep silent about this section.
The rock is getting better
At about 3500m we were able to get off the ridge again. We tried to memorize this place. Then we climbed more or less directly on the ridge towards the gray tower. The rock was now much better and the climbing more beautiful. Most of us stayed on the ridge, but now and then we dodged again into the south flank (trail marks). The gray tower we climbed directly (III), a bypass to the right would also have been possible. Meanwhile, we met some mountain guides with their guests, thanks to early departure, they were already in descent. But even we were timely still fully in the timetable, there was no reason to hurry. We would easily undercut our time for conversion (12: 00 clock).
The ominous Red Tower, with the nominal Crux (III), was pure climbing enjoyment and totally harmless contrary to our assumption. The previously climbed tower was more demanding. The following meters over the sharp ridge and some towers required once again highest concentration, then we reached already the north or Talgipfel. It followed the last few meters in simple climbing over the ridge to the summit cross. This was a great mountain trip, much better than we expected. The reports circulating on the Internet connected the West Ridge almost exclusively with annoying break areas, which we could not confirm. On the contrary: it was a great tour.
Immediately we were in serious terrain
We installed ourselves on this lofty peak and enjoyed the wonderful views and depths for a few minutes. The weather was still stable and the temperatures pleasant. Therefore we wanted to take our time in the descent. Up above the red tower we climbed rope-free, but then we were not in the saddle to pull out the rope, even though the following climbing sites were not really difficult. Despite the rope, we made good and speedy progress. The next difficulty was to find the entrance to about 3500m in the north-side bypass of the towers. Promptly we had a small Verhauer produced. We climbed into the north flank too early, and then immediately found ourselves in serious terrain. After all, we soon noticed the mistake and corrected the course by climbing back onto the ridge. A few meters further down the ridge, we found a noose and soon also a Sauschwanz (Bh), which showed the correct entry into the bypass. For this section in the untrustworthy rock, we were glad to know a few backups between us.
A cool wheat beer was waiting in the valley
After returning to the ridge at point 3408m, we stowed the climbing gear, and made our way back to the remaining, now much easier descent back to the material depot at the foot of the west ridge (Steinmänner). But we wanted to break only on the sheep bear 3240m, which we reached after a few minutes. Once again, the cloudy Bietschhorn 3934m offered us spectacular views before embarking on the final descent into the valley. Even before the Bietschornhütte 2565m we had also collected the last mountain guide (with still tethered guest). We left the hut again to the right, and ran instead in a train down into the valley. What followed was also obvious: the reward in the form of a cool wheat beer.
Conclusion of the Skyrun on the Bietschhorn
The prominent Bietschhorn 3934m is a great mountain whose ascent is absolutely worthwhile even over the West Ridge. Much (negative) is written about this fragile ridge. For the lower section that is probably true, but the upper ridge section offers the most beautiful climbing rocks and pure enjoyment. And on the whole tour, the proportion in brittle rock takes up less than a quarter.
The Bietschhorn Westgrat is perfect for a skyrun with minimal equipment. One enters very little or no glacier, and can therefore do without crampons and pimples. Given the technical ability, the ridge can also be rope-free climbing, even in sneakers. However, you should inform yourself about the conditions, because as soon as snow or ice is on the ridge, then the story looks quite different again.
The rope-free ascent was possible without any problems
Since we had no previous information, we opted for the light mountain boots and crampons, but we had not used the iron. The rope-free ascent was possible without any problems, for the descent the rope was pleasant with some intermediate safeguards.
In terms of time, there would still be a lot going on in the ascent if you want to get away from the mountain for a quick ascent. In the descent you should take the necessary time on the west ridge. Nevertheless, we were more than satisfied with 4: 45 Std. Base to summit, respectively 8: 45 Std. For the whole tour.
Facts about the tour on the Bietschhorn
- Route: Ried - Nästwald - Bietschhornhütte - Bietschjoch - Bietschgletscher - Westgrat - Bietschhorn - Westgrat - Schafbärg - Bietschjoch - Bietschhornhütte - Ried.
- Distance: 18.6km
- Altitude: 2460m
- Cut pulse: 109bpm
- Maxpuls: 137bpm
- Meals: 1 gel, 3 energy bar, 1 sandwich, 1 liter iso, 0.5 liter water
- Terrain: 50% mountain and hiking trails, 50% trailless (or alpine routes).
Equipment
- Equipment: Light mountaineering boots and crampons, poles, helmet, harness, 30m rope, some express and carbine, descender, slings and short cords, rescue blanket, small medipack, camera, sunglasses, sun cream, long running pants, thin pants, T-shirt, Gore -Tex jacket, insulation jacket, arm warmers, gloves, smartphone included Swiss Map Mobile, map print, Suunto 9.
The difficulties of the tour
Between pts. 3408m and 3500m: The first towers can be bypassed on the south side by the rubble flank and brittle rock (scattered traces), until you get back to the ridge. The following, sharp towers are then bypassed on the north side in the Bruchfels (traces, some bra and Sauschwänze). Exit to the ridge on 3500m.
- It would be easier on the south side, but only with good firn conditions, delicate and dangerous on a trip
- Stay on the ridge until the gray tower or sometimes dodge to the south (tracks).
- The needle (gray tower?) Directly climbed (III, 1 Bh), can be bypassed to the right (S) (brittle).
- Red Tower: Super rock and rather good-natured for climbing (III, Bh).
- After the red tower to the Talgipfel quite sharp and exposed, climbing points II, some bra present.
The times
- Start Ried point 1486m at 06:37 a.m. - Intermediate time Bietschjoch point 3173m at 08:32 am.
- In the meantime, entry west ridge 3150m at 09:04 a.m. - Arrival at Bietschhorn 3934m at 11:19 a.m.
- Start Bietschhorn 3934m at 11: 33 clock.
- Interim start Westgrat 3150m at 13: 39 clock.
- Arrival sheep bear 3239m at 13: 55 clock.
- Start sheep bear 3239m at 14: 10 clock.
- Arrival Ried Point 1486m at 15: 23 clock. (68min from Bietschjoch to the valley)
- Total breaks: 8: 46 Std.
Remarks
The topo "Bernese Alps"
In addition to the Bietschhorn, you will find 65 classic alpine tours on rock and ice between Les Diablerets and Grimsel and an additional 50 easy alpine tours and information on glacier trekking in the "Bernese Alps" topo.
About Bächli mountain sports
Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist shop for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. Bächli Bergsport currently offers its customers expert advice and high-quality service at 11 locations in Switzerland. Published on LACRUX Bächli mountain sports at regular intervals exciting contributions to the topics of climbing, bouldering and mountaineering.
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Credits: picture and text Bächli mountain sports