In today's article shows climbing coach and author Eric ListenHow to easily train your finger power. All you need is a finger board or campus board.
In the following video the exercises are explained (English). Below you will find the exercise suggestions listed.
Exercise suggestions by Eric Hörst
Exercise without additional weight
Five repetitions à 12 seconds hang, 2 minutes rest between repetitions. The whole then corresponds to a sentence.
Eric Hörst recommends 2 sets for beginners and 5-6 sets for advanced users.
Exercise with additional weight
If you are so strong that it is easy for you to hang 12 seconds on the smallest handles, Eric recommends that you work with additional weight. So training is less painful and stressful for your fingers.
Find a weight that you can hang on the rope ring of your harness and hold for 10 seconds.
Three repetitions à 10 seconds hang, 53 seconds rest between repetitions. The whole then corresponds to a sentence.
Eric Hörst recommends a break of 3 minutes between sentences.