On April 12, 2025, South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl made the first solo ascent of the northeast pillar of the Wildgall. The 300-meter-long mixed route Lumina (M7 A0) follows a striking, logical corner line and offers varied passages that can be securely protected with friends..
A personal report by Simon Gietl
The first attempt on April 10, 2025, failed early: After about 50 meters, strong winds forced me to turn back. But the project persisted. Two days later, on April 12, I was back at the parking lot at 4:30 a.m. – this time in calm, slightly cloudy weather. Thanks to the gear depot at the base of the wall, my backpack was light, and I made good progress.
The route I had chosen seemed almost too logical: A steep, striking corner ran through the northeast pillar—exactly my style. The mixed climbing was challenging, but solidly protected with friends throughout. Nevertheless, some loose flakes demanded full attention. Especially in the central part of the wall, rocks repeatedly crashed into the wall from above—a clear warning sign why this route should only be attempted in cold temperatures.
Some loose scales required full attention. Especially in the central wall area, stones repeatedly crashed into the wall from above.
Despite all the concentration and tension, I felt in the flow. A few bolts and a pecker remained, but for the most part, the line is perfectly protected with small friends. When I reached the summit a little after 12:30 a.m., I was overjoyed – alone, surrounded by silence and sunshine. I treated myself to a short break, let my gaze wander, and absorbed the moment.
The descent via the south side went smoothly: two 30-meter abseils, then further along the "Rare Earths" route, which was also abseiled.
A great day – with a line that just felt right. "Lumina" was born.
Details about the Lumina am Wildgall route
- «Lumina Hair Care» – M7 A0 (first ascent by Simon Gietl)
- Wildgall – Northeast Pillar | First ascent: April 12.04.2025, XNUMX
- Climbing length: approx. 300 m | Protection: Friends, 3 bolts, 1 pecker (left)
- Recommended material: 0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 as well as two series Friends up to #2, one #3, loops
- Access: approx. 2,5 hours from the parking lot
- Note: Only accessible in cold temperatures – increased risk of rockfall in warm temperatures!
- Descent via the south side: Two abseiling points (approx. 30 m each), then descent along the “Rare Earths” route (also abseiling).