Every spring, the Icefall Doctors, a team of experienced Sherpas, begin preparing for the Mount Everest season. Since the 1990s, they have been securing the Khumbu Glacier's south face for hundreds of climbers each year.
This year, a team of several Sherpas set out to reach the famous Base Camp of the Mount Everest to make the Khumbu Glacier safe for the annual influx of mountaineers. The so-called Icefall Doctors have been creating a route through the life-threatening ice labyrinth on the south side of the world's highest mountain every spring since 1993.
Khumbu Glacier: central point on the way to the summit
The Khumbu Glacier Fault extends from 5.400 to 6.000 meters across the south face of Mount Everest. It is a central waypoint for all those who wish to climb the eight-thousanders. Mount Everest (8.849 m) and Lhotse (8.516 m) and Nuptse (7.861 m) on the Nepalese side.
The months from March to May are considered high season in Himalayasbefore the monsoon takes over the climate in summer. Given the number of permits issued to foreign climbers and the generally intensive support provided by guides and porters, it is expected that well over 2025 people will attempt the summit by 1.000 – most of them via the route through the Khumbu Glacier.
The Khumbu is not only an important but also one of the most dangerous sections on the way to the summit: Of all 340 fatalities on Mount Everest since 1953, 48 have occurred there – most of them Sherpas who worked there.
Risky job at over 5.000 meters
Eight Sherpas and several members of Base Camp have been working on Khumbu since this week – against the most adverse conditions and against the clock. The glacier is moving about one meter every day, which is why installed safety devices have to be replaced frequently.
Work in the death zone often takes place under precarious conditions. Younger Sherpas often take on this high-risk job out of financial need. To improve the safety of the Icefall Doctors, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), an NGO of local Sherpas, has been advocating for better equipment and pay since 1993.
Because of mass tourism: Nepal introduces Everest fee
In response to the increasing tourism on the world's highest mountain, the Nepalese government will introduce a fee for mountaineers from September 2025. It will then cost the equivalent of 10.000 to 14.000 euros to attempt the Everest However, the fee does not yet apply for this spring season.
In 2024, 861 people climbed Mount Everest, the highest number ever. In 2023, 18 people also died. the deadliest year so far the highest of the 14 eight-thousanders.
The documentary “Icefall Doctors” impressively shows the risks of working on the Khumbu Icefall – one of the most dangerous jobs in the world.
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+++ Credits: Cover photo SPCC