Simon Gietl and Alexander Huber have opened a new route on the Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites: The two climbed "Apassionata" classic from the bottom and without bolts.
The new route adds a direct access to the existing route »Loss lei heb schun« (first climbed in 2003 by Heli Gargitter & Renato Botte) on the Heiligkreuzkofel. »Apassionata« (9+) follows a striking steep wall passage where no other climbing routes have been found so far – according to Simon Gietl one of the last obvious lines in this wall area.
I'd had this line in mind for a long time. It seemed challenging and elegant at the same time.
Simon Gietl
Access from below without bolts
To free this last line, Simon Gietl has teamed up with Alexander Huber Both have already been together this summer with Dani Arnold für eine first alpine ascent of Jirishanca (6.094 m). "With Alexander, I had the ideal climbing partner for this project," says Gietl.
At the end of August, the two succeeded in opening the route on the Heiligkreuzkofel (2.907 m) in classic style from below – entirely without bolts. They opened "Apassionata" using technical and partly free climbing, always following the logical line through the overhanging, compact rock. In the upper section, the new route connects with the original route from 2003.
The facts about the route
- Name: Passionate
- First ascent: Simon Gietl & Alexander Huber, August 25, 2025
- Difficulties (pitch lengths): 7-, 9+, 8-, 9-/9, 8+, 2, 7-
- Fuse: 14 quickdraws, 1 set of Totem Cams
- Approach: via the Gablon Route, abseiling three times. Across a wide ledge and an easy traverse to the entrance.
- Character: Compact, mostly overhanging rock. Technically demanding, but consistently logical.
Not the first attempt
Gietl from South Tyrol and Huber from Upper Bavaria aren't the first duo to attempt the route without bolts. Years earlier, Heli Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder had also taken on the project. However, after a thorough abseil along the possible route, both decided that a free ascent was not realistic. The wall seemed too slippery, too forbidding – out of respect, both left the project untouched.
Even the successful ascent by Simon Gietl and Alexander Huber was not without complications. A first redpoint attempt on August 15 had to be aborted due to an injury to Gietl. Ten days later, both climbers climbed the entire route together from below.
A line that stands for common values
With their classic-style redpoint ascent and the deliberate omission of bolts, Simon Gietl and Alexander Huber once again demonstrate their clear ethical stance. Gietl hopes that this new route will unite generations of climbers precisely for this reason – "through shared values and a passion for pure style." The duo was particularly pleased that Heli Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder also congratulated them on the ascent.
Apassionata symbolizes the respectful, tradition-conscious approach to climbing.
Simon Gietl
That might interest you
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- “There are moments of doubt” – Alexander Huber on free solo climbing
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Credits cover photo: Felix Bub