The French alpinist Charles Dubouloz has managed a spectacular ascent on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. He is the first to succeed in winter ascent of the demanding mixed route Rolling Stones through the north face of the Grandes Jorasses - single-handedly.
With his latest achievement in the Mont Blanc massif, Charles Dubouloz will go down in mountaineering history. The Frenchman spent a total of six days with temperatures down to minus 30 degrees and strong winds on the more than 1 meter high wall.
I just arrived in Courmayeur and I still can't believe it. I've been dreaming of this ascent for a very, very long time.
Charles Dubouloz
Solo winter ascent of the north face - no way
Even if the north face of the Grandes Jorasses has already experienced a few winter ascents by illustrious names such as Ueli Steck, Tom Ballard or Catherine Destivelle, nobody has dared to climb the face alone. Until now. The Frenchman spent six days, five uncomfortable bivouac nights with 35 kilograms of luggage in tow on the Rolling Stones route, rated ED, M8, A3+, 6a, WI5+.
Charles Dubouloz during his impressive solo ascent
Via the Rolling Stones route
The route was first climbed in the summer of 1979 by the Czech rope team Thomas Prochaska, Jroslav Rutil, Ludek Schlechta and Jiri Svejda. Due to the risk of falling rocks, among other things, the route was rarely repeated, at least in the summer months. The Rolling Stones experienced the first winter ascent in February 1984 by the two Frenchmen Benoît Grison and Eric Grammond. The first free ascent in winter goes to the account of the Slovenian alpinists Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindič.
That might interest you
- Choking in a tent: you should know that
- Dani Arnold climbs the Petit Dru north face in a new record
- Declared dead on K2: John Snorri, Juan Pablo Mohr and Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Sebastien montaz
German
English
Spanish
German