Not exactly fresh news, but still worth mentioning: From 2 to 7 June 2025, the French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier together with the Pakistani mountaineer Muizz ud Din the first ascent of the east ridge of Spantik (7.027 m) in the Karakoram.
The first ascents named the route "Zindabad," which means "long life" in Urdu. The new route climbs 1.800 meters and was rated M5 A1 / 80° by the first ascents. It also marks a milestone for mountaineering in Pakistan: For the first time, a Pakistani mountaineer is not only involved as a supporter on a route of this difficulty, but is also one of the first climbers.
The first ascent of the Spantik East Ridge in detail
The expedition was characterized by adverse weather conditions. The rope team spent over a week at base camp searching for the right weather window. An initial clearing was used for acclimatization tours at 5.200 m, later at 5.800 m. Afterwards, the two climbers descended back to base camp.
Given the continued stable weather window, they decided to attempt the summit – despite fatigue and limited altitude acclimatization. They climbed the "Zindabad" route in five days, although snow drifts just below the summit forced them to turn back at an altitude of 6.999 m (just 28 meters below summit height). The descent took place via the normal route within one and a half days, with a final bivouac at 5.800 m.
Although they didn't reach the summit, the two mountaineers consider the expedition a success. After all, their primary goal was to open the new line on the Spantik East Ridge and its symbolic significance for Pakistani mountaineering.
Because the expedition is part of a larger project: Muizz ud Din plans to become the first UIAGM-certified mountain guide Pakistan He will travel to France this summer to begin his training, with the goal of completing it by 2029. In the long term, Pakistan will establish its own mountain guide schoolto reduce dependence on Nepalese guides, to make work in the mountains safer for local porters and guides and thus to open up valuable sources of income.
additional information
Spantik, also known as the "Golden Peak," is the highest peak of the Spantik-Sosbun Mountains. It is considered a relatively easy seven-thousander by the normal route and is a popular destination for commercial expeditions. The first ascent was made in 1955 by the Germans Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt, and Jochen Tietze.
Mathieu Maynadier himself is known for his numerous first ascents and his commitment to the development of mountaineering in Pakistan. He met Muizz ud Din five years ago as part of a ski project and became friends with the Pakistani.
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Photo Credits: Muizz and Din