"Secrets, Shepherds, Sex and Serendipity" (M7, AI5, A2+, 3000m) is the name of the new route on the 6673m high mountain in Pakistan – a name that sticks in your mind. It was established by George Ponsonby (Ireland) and James Price (England), both members of the Young Alpinist Group from Great Britain.
For nine days, the two young alpinists climbed the previously unclimbed northwest ridge of Aikache Chhok. They descended via the mountain's southwest face. A remarkable feat by the Young Alpinists! When Ponsonby and Price chose the mountain and the route, they believed the summit was unnamed. In fact, they only learned after their expedition that an Italian team, consisting of Enrico De Luca, Giorgio Malucci, and Gianpiero Di Federico, had already reached the summit in 1983 – but via the south face.
Good omens, shepherds, and a weather window
The rope team had set up their base camp in the Baltar Valley together with other members of the Young Alpinist Group, Sinead Thin, Gemma Robertson and Anna Soligo, and some local mountaineers, with a group of shepherds.
The expedition teams spent a week and a half exploring the area and scouting possible routes until a favorable weather window finally appeared. An imam passing through, according to Ponsonby, prophesied good omens for their undertaking.
Thin, Robertson and Solingo had planned to climb Munocho Chhok (5900m). They had allotted four days for their expedition, but on the planned summit day at 5632m they decided to turn back.
Secrets, Shepherds, Sex and Serendipity
The duo Ponsonby and Price chose a route they could see from the entrance of their tent the entire time: a gully-filled path leading to the summit of Aikache Chhok. They had planned a five- to seven-day approach, but Price told us that they realized on the second day that they were "going to be on the mountain for quite a long time."
We probably joked about it at that point, but it was only the second day, we were fresh and full of energy.
James Price
After eight days, the two reached the summit. After surveying the area from the summit ridge, they began their descent. Following several challenging glacier crossings, rappels down seracs and rock faces, the team finally reached a bivouac site, just in time for sunset and to see the headlamps of their teammates shining up from base camp. Back at base camp, they were greeted by the other members of the YAG, the Pakistani climbers, and the herders with singing and gunfire. "I think we experienced every emotion imaginable during our time on the mountain. But we always tried to maintain a certain lightness. Even on the last day, we still had the energy to crack jokes and tell stories before going to sleep," Price reflected.
According to Price and Ponsonby, the mountains in the Baltar Valley are mostly named after people. Since none of those present at the time knew about the Italian expedition of 1983, they named the mountain "Akbar Chhok" in honor of their host and as a reminder of their time together.
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Credits: Images: James Price and George Ponsonby