Sean Villanueva with the new monster solo traverse “Doble M” in Patagonia

On February 26, 2024, the Belgian Sean Villanueva managed to climb a new, extraordinarily long traverse in Patagonia. He climbed the three towers of Torres del Paine and La Peineta.

The first free ascent of Riders on the storm (1.200m 7c+). Sean Villanueva apparently not enough – or maybe just a good warm-up program. Because almost two weeks after his exploit in the company of Siebe Vanhee, Nico Favresse and Drew Smith Villanueva moved to Campo Britanico in the French Valley single-handedly and with minimal luggage.

As Rolando Garibotti reports on Pataclimb.com, it rained all night, so Sean Villanueva's equipment was soaked. Not the best conditions for a historical traversal. But Villanueva wouldn't be Villanueva if he didn't put doubts aside and set out decisively.

That was also necessary because after the heavy rainfall there was a short and relatively good weather window. And so, late in the afternoon of February 23rd, Villanueva embarked on the Il Lungo Sogno route (900m 60˚ 5.10 A2) at Torre Sur.

Sean Villanueva brought with him a light tent, food for five days, two gas cartridges, two light ice tools, crampons, a sleeping bag and clothing.

Rolando Garibotti
Sean Villanueva Doble M_Patagonia_Pause_Quelle magdalenamst
Despite the high pace, Sean Villanueva always allows himself a well-deserved break. (Credits: Magdalena Mittersteiner)

On his traversal of Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and Peineta, Villanueva repeatedly encountered delicate conditions, cracks were iced over and there was a lot of snow in certain passages.

When we arrived at the last peak, most of the surrounding peaks were already covered in clouds, which is why Villanueva only allowed herself a short break before arriving at it after several steep abseils. At 16.30:XNUMX p.m. it was done: the first ascent of the “Doble M” traverse.

Rolando Garibotti: http://pataclimb.com/knowledge/mm_en.html

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Pictures Rolando Garibotti | Patagonia Vertical

News

Former Team USA climbing coach sentenced to prison for possession of child sexual abuse material

Matthew Maddison, the former speed climbing coach of USA Climbing, has been sentenced to up to 15 years in prison in the US state of Utah. The 37-year-old pleaded guilty as part of an agreement with prosecutors to possessing and distributing child sexual abuse material online. USA Climbing had already suspended the British-born Maddison from his duties following his arrest in the spring.

Following a fatal climbing accident on Kalymnos: Almost 400 routes have been refurbished with titanium bolts.

Since the fatal climbing accident on Kalymnos in the spring, route refurbishment on the Greek island has accelerated. According to the local initiative Rebolt Kalymnos, 383 routes have been completely re-equipped – with titanium instead of stainless steel.

La Sportiva Challenger 28 review: Sailcloth at full throttle

With the Challenger 28, La Sportiva is entering a category previously unknown to the brand: technical backpacks. I took it with me for five days of touring, including trips to the Arête des Cosmiques and alpine climbing.

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Former Team USA climbing coach sentenced to prison for possession of child sexual abuse material

Matthew Maddison, the former speed climbing coach of USA Climbing, has been sentenced to up to 15 years in prison in the US state of Utah. The 37-year-old pleaded guilty as part of an agreement with prosecutors to possessing and distributing child sexual abuse material online. USA Climbing had already suspended the British-born Maddison from his duties following his arrest in the spring.

Following a fatal climbing accident on Kalymnos: Almost 400 routes have been refurbished with titanium bolts.

Since the fatal climbing accident on Kalymnos in the spring, route refurbishment on the Greek island has accelerated. According to the local initiative Rebolt Kalymnos, 383 routes have been completely re-equipped – with titanium instead of stainless steel.

La Sportiva Challenger 28 review: Sailcloth at full throttle

With the Challenger 28, La Sportiva is entering a category previously unknown to the brand: technical backpacks. I took it with me for five days of touring, including trips to the Arête des Cosmiques and alpine climbing.