Luca Moroni and Tommaso Lamantia The first ascent of a new challenging mixed route in the Gondo Gorge was achieved: Gli Artigli di Dade (WI 4+ M10, 4SL).
Eight years ago, the idea of Luca Moroni and Thomas Lamantia to try the line on the Cascatone di Gabi. After the first ice climbing pitch, the two realized that this ice structure had already been climbed once, as they reported to Planetmountain.
From this point on, the line begins to overhang and the two discovered a logical line that they really wanted to try. After a few days of setting up and climbing, the two climbed two more pitches, but had to wait for better conditions. That was the end of it for now, the two had to wait until the ice developed better.
I think Gli Artigli di Dade is one of the most difficult mixed routes in the Gondo Gorge.
Thomas Lamantia
Short intensive climbing | Topo Gli Artigli di Dade
The Gli Artigli di Dade route is located at the Cascata di Gabi in the Gondo Gorge, Switzerland. The route is four pitches long, with the first pitch going through ice. The two pitches that follow lead through steep, overhanging terrain. The final pitch then leads mostly through ice to a ledge. From the belay of the third pitch you can abseil down with a double rope. The route is rated WI 4+ M10 (details in the topo) and was free climbed by Luca Moroni.
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Credits: Pictures Thomas Lamantia and Luca Moroni