On Monday, December 7th, 2020, the mountaineering legend Doug Scott died at the age of 79 from complications from cancer.

Doug Scott was one of the best British alpinists, especially in the 1970s and 80s, and is considered one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers of all time. Doug Scott passed away on Monday, December 7th, 2020 at the age of 79. Doug was diagnosed with a brain tumor earlier this year.

Most dramatic descent in the history of alpinism

Doug Scott was the first British man to stand on Mount Everest. Two years after this premiere, Doug had an accident while descending the Baintha Brakk, better known as The Ogre, where he broke both ankles.

Doug Scott (left) and Chris Bonington. (Image British Mountaineering Council)
Doug Scott (left) and Chris Bonington.
(Image British Mountaineering Council)

His rope partner, Chris Bonington, was initially able to help him with the descent, but then broke several ribs in another fall and developed pulmonary edema.

Doug continued his descent crawling for nine days without pain medication until he and Chris Bonington were rescued by their mountaineering buddies.


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Successful and numerous first ascents

Less dramatic, if no less impressive, were his other ascents, including over 40 first ascents worldwide.

  • 1967 First ascent of the south face of Koh-i-Bandaka in the Hindu Kush.
  • 1974 First ascent of Changabang.
  • 1975 First ascent of the southwest face of Mount Everest together with Dougal Haston, first British ascent of Mount Everest, bivouac at an altitude of over 8700 m.
  • 1976 First ascent of the north face of Mount McKinley.
  • 1977 First ascent of the extremely difficult Ogre together with Chris Bonington.
  • 1979 First ascent of the Kangchenjunga north ridge in alpine style. Third ascent of the Kangchenjunga main summit, first ascent in alpine style and without additional oxygen, together with Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker.
  • 1979 First ascent of the north face of the Nuptse.
  • 1980 expedition to the K2 west ridge. Scott reaches an altitude of approximately 7000 meters.
  • 1981 First ascent of the Shivling East Ridge.
  • 1982 First ascent of the Shishapangma south face.
  • 1983 First ascent of Lobsang Spire.
  • 1983 ascent of Broad Peak.
  • 1983 attempt at K2. A height of approx. 8000 meters is reached.
  • 1988 First ascent of Jichu Drake.
  • 1994 Doug Scott climbs the last of the Seven Summits (after the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version).

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Credits: Cover picture Chris Bonington, picture Doug Scott and Chris Bonington (BMC), List of inspections

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