The Briton Buster Martin recently published a video of his ascent of the Hubble route with the title: First 9a route in the world. This title, however, carries Action Directe in the Franconian Jura. Does history have to be rewritten? We spoke to Alexander Megos.
If you ask a climber what the first 9a is in the world, the answer usually comes quickly and without thinking: Action Directe, first ascended from Wolfgang Güllich in the German climbing area Frankenjura.
Now the British claim this title for themselves. Buster Martin recently got the route Hubble im Peak District repeated. For the young Brit it is clear: this route has to be rated 9a. He is not alone in his assessment. The route was already rated 9a by previous repeaters, i.e. higher than Ben Moonwho rated the route as 1990c + when it was first ascent in 8.
Do the history books need to be rewritten?
In a video by Buster Martin he writes in black and white that Hubble should be rated 9a and says that the route is the first 9a in the world. Because Hubble was first entered in 1990, Action Directe, however, only a year later.
From the outside, Buster Martin is of course right, because the later upgrading of Hubble made the route the first 9a in the world. Does climbing history now have to be rewritten? What says Alexander Megos. to evaluate Hubble? He is the only climber who was able to climb both routes red point.
Interview with Alexander Megos
How do you feel about the fact that many repeaters rate the Hubble route with a 9a?
In my opinion, it's very, very difficult to compare Hubble and Action Directe. Hubble has four trains, Action Directe has sixteen. I think it's hard to make an appropriate comparison. I said back then that if the conditions at Hubble are good, then it is definitely no more difficult than 8c +.
Ben Moon says in the Buster Martin video that you would not rate the Hubble route with a 9a so that Action Directe would not lose its title in your home country.
Now, in retrospect, trying to change history and declare Hubble as the first 9a is no longer possible. The fact is, Action Direct is heavier than Hubble. Even at that time. And the way Wolfgang Action Directe climbed, it was much more difficult, and at that time the degrees were awarded and nothing should be changed.
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Credits: Cover picture Cafe force