"This is probably my favorite climb I have done so far. This is Sentry Box." 9-year-old Reagan says proudly into the camera, grinning before the video begins, documenting her ascent of 5.12a (8+/9- UIAA) in British Columbia, Canada.
Canadian Trad Testpiece
Sentry Box is a real challenge amidst the steep granite walls of Murrin Park, an impressive climbing area just outside Squamish backpackThe first free ascent was by Eric Weinstein in 1976. At the center of the 27-meter-long line is a steep Finger fracture, which tests both technique and mental strength. The route is considered a test piece for finger cracks and was the first 5.12a in Squamish.
»The start is a super great hand and finger crack«
Reagan confidently guides her viewers through the route, explaining the cruxes and showing the way to the top. She knows exactly what she's talking about, no one can deny that. "Sentry Box" (5.12a) starts with a super exciting 5.10 hand and finger crack that leads to the first crux – the roof! That's pretty far for me, so I have to put my feet up and stretch as far as I can to reach the hold around the corner," she (or her parents) writes on Instagram.
The roof is followed by a good rest, which is a welcome relief, as the real crux begins after this: a steep, narrow crack that runs the entire length to the anchor. Even a 9-year-old has trouble getting her fingers into this crack.
From mountain biking to trad climbing
At the age of just 4, Reagan started mountain biking and shares her adventures on Instagram under the username »Reagan_Rocks_Rides"The joy of her sport is evident in every video. She began rock climbing at around the age of five. She reported her first trad lead climb at just six years old in March 5.
Lead climbing on rock is mentally and physically much more demanding than climbing a route with a top rope.
Reagan Goodwyn
Reagan is very intentional about her climbing and the routes she climbs. Since she started climbing, Reagan has climbed several trad routes in Indian Creek, Red Rocks, Index, Cochise, and Yosemite.
I love the feeling I get at the top of a difficult route. It makes me feel so good.
Reagan Goodwyn
Trad climbing is a completely different mental challenge than sport climbing, as this type of sport requires you to set your own safety equipment—and, of course, knowing where to place it. Reagan has a trick for when she gets nervous while climbing: she sings.
Also impressive is the clarity and reflection with which she discusses the climbing routes. It's fascinating that, even at her age, she demonstrates such a strong awareness of the sport of climbing—especially trad climbing.
Here is the YouTube video of their visit:
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Credits: Cover photo: Reagan_Rocks_Rides