Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have free climbed "WoGü" (8c) in the Rätikon mountains – on two consecutive days and each time on their first attempt. Barbara Zangerl also thus achieves the first ascent of the route by a woman.
On August 22nd, Jacopo Larcher redpointed all nine pitches of the 7th Kirchlispitze, followed by Babsi Zangerl on August 23rd. Both climbers led all the pitches, with the other belaying. They have now, a little over a month later, announced their ascents in a press release.
A short list since 2008
The 270-meter-long route of Beat Kammerlander With its nine pitches, it is considered one of the great multi-pitch routes in the Alps. Kammerlander first climbed it from the bottom in the late 1990s, and the first free ascent was achieved in 2008 by the then 15-year-old Adam OndraAfter that, there were only four more ascents: Edu Marín (2016), Roland Hemetzberger (2017), Cédric Lachat (2020), and Louna Ladevant (2023). Larcher and Zangerl are thus numbers six and seven. With Babsi Zangerl, a woman is now on this list for the first time.
From "Déjà" go 50 meters to the right
The decision was made almost spontaneously. Shortly before, the two had climbed "Déjà". – the hardest ascent of a multi-pitch route by a woman – the gear was still lying on the wall. Just 50 meters further to the right awaited a route that had been tempting the climbing team for years. However, "WoGü" is only easier on paper, writes Larcher in his report: the route is significantly more sustained and full of hard, bouldery pitches. Added to this is what makes a Kammerlander route so special: widely spaced bolts.
Hike-and-fly in the morning, headlamp in the evening
Zangerl and Larcher made their first attempt at the route at the end of July. They climbed the individual pitches relatively quickly. The real challenge lay elsewhere: to link everything together in one day. Their routine remained the same for weeks. A hike-and-fly from home in the morning, followed by the drive to the Rätikon mountains in the early afternoon, and starting the route in the evening because it was too hot before then. They always returned with headlamps. Two consecutive days of climbing were rarely possible – some pitches are extremely sharp and correspondingly hard on the skin.
45 meters with a boulder problem before the anchor.
The first 8c pitch is the third of the line and approximately 45 meters long. After a long section around the 8a grade with good rest points and a long runout, a tough boulder problem awaits just before the anchor. Larcher, being the taller of the two, found a manageable beta, while Zangerl couldn't reach the crucial hold and had to work out his own solution.
Twelve meters that take the most time
According to the press release, the short 8b+ section cost them the most time. Twelve meters of vertical, in places even slightly inclined climbing on tiny holds and footholds – one small mistake, and you're out. Directly above is the infamous "bathtub" with a difficult-to-read start and razor-sharp crimps. Larcher describes the second 8b+, on the other hand, as the most beautiful pitch of the route: three steep, hard sections with good resting points in between.
Two attempts at two lengths for Larcher
Larcher went first because Zangerl had been given priority on "Déjà". It rained during the night, and in the morning the wall was soaking wet. The two waited in the van until midday and started climbing when the wall began to dry. He managed the first 8c on his first attempt. On the short 8b+, he lost his balance at the crux, and on the "Bathtub" route, he grabbed the quickdraw right at the start. He climbed both pitches on his second attempt after a short break.
Babsi Zangerl: Key lengths on the first attempt
Zangerl started very early the next morning to reach the short 8b+ while it was still in the shade. She accepted the fact that the starting slab (7a) was still wet – the pitches dry out during the day and start dripping again at night. On the first 8c, she had to rely on her own, admittedly less reliable, beta to reach the final hold. It was enough. After that came the 8b+, the "bathtub," the second 8b+, the 8a+, and the final pitch – all on her first attempt, according to Larcher.
We knew we could do it, but we didn't expect to climb the route both in quick succession – and then each on our first attempt!
Jacopo Larcher
A weekend to conclude the season
The Rätikon mountain range has become one of the most important areas of both their careers over the years. Their summer 2026 trip there ends with "WoGü," but the climbing team doesn't reveal what's next in the press release.
They expressed their gratitude to Kammerlander, whom they called "a legend and a great inspiration," and to everyone who looked after their dog Olli during the long evenings at the wall.
That might interest you
- Documentary recommendation: Babsi Zangerl – the strongest female alpine climber in the world? | Mountain Worlds
- Rätikon | Babsi Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher redpoint Next Generation (8b+, 170 m)
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Credits cover image: Jonathan Faeth / Timeline Production (@timeline_production)