Silvan Schüpbach and Janluca Kostner have made the first complete free climb of "Untergang der Titanen" (8a) on the north face of the Gross Wellhorn. The 600-meter route in the Bernese Alps remains consistently difficult over its 20 pitches.
Three days, two bivouacs, all free
From September 23rd to 25th, 2026, Silvan Schüpbach Janluca Kostner and his team ascended the north face of the 3.191-meter-high Gross Wellhorn. The result was the first completely free ascent of the route. The line is approximately 600 meters long and comprises 20 pitches. The hardest pitch is graded 8a, with 7b being the obligatory climb. The team spent two nights on a narrow ledge in the middle of the wall.
The route name has a double meaning: Schüpbach refers on the one hand to the great glacier dieback, and on the other hand to Ken Follett's historical novel "Fall of Giants".
The line was already in place by 2025.
The route was first climbed in 2025. At that time, Marco Malinowski and Benjamin Bosshard established it. Filippo Sala Silvan Schüpbach established a route through the largely untouched north face. The route is secured with a mix of bolts and trad gear. The rock is excellent and solid for long stretches.
The difficulty doesn't hinge on a single crux. Crucially, the climbing difficulty hardly diminishes over the entire height of the wall. "The real challenge lies in the consistent difficulty. For over 20 pitches, the climbing remains demanding," writes Schüpbach about the route. Difficult free climbing, alpine route finding, and placing your own protection require considerable experience and personal responsibility.
Two nights on the tape
For Schüpbach, the experience on the mountain is just as important as the athletic performance: "Besides the sport, the experience is always a central element for me: we bivouacked for two nights on a narrow ledge on the face. Nights like these deepen the connection to a place enormously," writes the mountain guide from Thun. Added to this was a stark contrast in the weather. After an exceptionally hot summer, wintery temperatures already prevailed on the north face at the end of September. "After such a hot summer, it was quite something to suddenly have sub-zero temperatures in September. On a north face, you notice the change of seasons immediately."
Silvan Schüpbach and the next generation
The climb was particularly special for Schüpbach because of his partners. Kostner from South Tyrol, Sala from Ticino, and Bosshard from Graubünden belong to a new generation of ambitious alpinists and climbers. "It was exciting and instructive for me to watch these young talents climbing," said Schüpbach.
Silvan Schüpbach's self-drawn topo for "Fall of Titans" | Image: Silvan Schüpbach
Route overview
- Mountain: Gross Wellhorn, 3.191 m, north face, Bernese Alps, Switzerland
- Length: approx. 600 m, 20 rope lengths
- Difficulty: 8a, 7b mandatory
- Fuse: A mix of bolts and mobile anchors
- Material: 2 x 60m ropes, 12 quickdraws, a set of cams #0.2 to 2
- Rock: Mostly very good, solid rock
- Approach: about 3 hours
- First ascent: 2025, Marco Malinowski, Benjamin Bosshard, Filippo Sala and Silvan Schüpbach
- First free ascent: September 23-25, 2026, Silvan Schüpbach and Janluca Kostner
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