After his very first 9a flash of "Vivi si muore", the 26-year-old Italian climber immediately followed it up the next day with another 9a on his first attempt: "Prima Classe". Both routes are located in the Italian climbing area of Val Tanaro.
The “Sendtember” has become known for Filip Schenk More than paid off: After numerous appearances in the Lead World Cup finals this season, he used his free time on the rock to flash his two hardest routes. Schenk has been climbing at the 9a grade for almost ten years, and in 2025 he achieved his hardest project to date with "Erebor" (9b).
Flash from “Vivi si muore”: Filip Schenk has tasted blood
Within two days, Schenk climbed "Vivi si muore," arguably the most impressive line in the La Stazione sector of Val Tamaro. The route, first ascended in 2025 by Lorenzo Bogliacino, consists of three difficult boulder problems with decent rest positions. "I knew the style might suit me well," Schenk wrote on Instagram.
To prepare, Schenk received beta information from his compatriot Giorgio Tomatis, who was also attempting the route. Unlike onsight climbing, in flash mode it's permitted to get beta information from others beforehand. Nevertheless, the 26-year-old was nervous before his flash attempt. All or Nothing – that's what this approach style is all about.
Having only one attempt feels different. But that's exactly what I'm looking for: the mental battle against tension, in order to transform it into extra power.
Filip Schenk
After the (albeit close) flash of “Vivi si muore”, Filip Schenk was immediately hooked: “Flashing difficult routes is definitely something I want to try more often in the future. I want to find out where my limit is.”
Second 9a flash the following day: “Prima Classe”
It took less than 24 hours before Filip Schenk faced his next flash challenge – this time on a route with a completely different style. While "Prima Classe" is located in the same sector as "Vivi si muore," it is significantly longer and offers fewer resting positions. Especially the Crux sequence with 20 difficult moves It offers hardly any opportunity to reflect. Schenk's challenge: to remain fully focused, both mentally and physically, during the passage.
Once again, the Italian received beta support from his own team: Giovanni Placci, who had already climbed the route, not only gave his colleague tips but also brushed all the holds for him. Schenk also made videos about the route. Beta of other climbers Clever. “Prima Classe”, like “Vivi si muore”, was first climbed by Lorenzo Bogliacino, but that was back in 2023. The line has only been repeated so far by Italy's climbing elite – including Laura Rogora, Stefano Carnati, Gabriele Moroni, and Schenk's companions Giovanni Placci and Giorgio Tomatis.
9a in Flash: The elite within the elite
“Prima Classe” demanded even more of Filip Schenk during his flash attempt than his first 9a flash. “I definitely felt the tension while climbing. It’s a very fine line between feeling in control and taking risks,” he summarized afterwards.
I'm quite proud of myself, especially because I had to fight so hard. I was at my physical and mental limit, but I managed to pull myself together.
Filip Schenk
Climbing a 9a route is a milestone that very few climbers ever reach. Mastering a route of this grade on the first attempt is an extraordinary achievement, even for professionals. The hardest flash climb to date was achieved by Adam Ondra in 2018 with "Super Crackinette" (9a+). in St. Léger. No one else has flashed a route graded 9a+ since then.
That might interest you
- Giovanni Placci: Four 9a's on four consecutive days
- November belongs to Erebor – Filip Schenk is working on his 9b project.
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Credits cover photo: Alberto di Guida