Renowned big-wall climber Lara Neumeier became the first woman to complete "Rhapsody" (E11 7a, 8c+) at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland on October 7th. Dave MacLeod's route was the world's first E11 in 2006 and is still considered a test piece in trad climbing 20 years later.
When in doubt, run it out
"Rhapsody" follows a thin crack for 35 meters through a slightly overhanging basalt wall. The first free ascent of this iconic line was achieved by Scottish professional climber Dave MacLeod in 2006. At the time, "Rhapsody" was not only the first E11 route in the British trad-grading system, but also the hardest trad route in the world. This record stood for over a decade: It wasn't until 2019 that a harder line, "Tribe" (E11/12, 9a), was added, followed by "Bon Voyage" (E12, 9a) in 2024.
The route demands everything that defines hard trad climbing: small, insecure holds, technical climbing, and long reaches. Then there's the mental aspect. The crux, a boulder problem in the 8A range, awaits at the very top of the wall. The last protection can be placed at about two-thirds of the way up, followed by an approximately eight-meter runout to the top.
"Rhapsody" is known for being really scary. The last belay is placed about two-thirds of the way up the wall. After that, there's about an eight-meter runout. If you were to fall right at the top, it would be a fall of 20 to 25 meters.
Lara Neumeier
From the Bürser Platte to Scotland
The journey to "Rhapsody" began in Vorarlberg. In the spring of 2025, Neumeier climbed "Psychogramm" (8b+) on the Bürser Platte, a trad route protected with micro nuts and small cams. "I loved the mental challenge and the process of working out the moves and placements on top rope, building confidence, and finally preparing for a redpoint attempt despite the fear of falling," the 28-year-old Neumeier described in her statement after the ascent. After this success, she wanted to try a harder project that would challenge her mentally in the same way. According to her own account, "Rhapsody" had occupied her thoughts since then. Jacopo Larcher The route had been climbed in 2016 and thus quickly became Neumeier's new project.
First visit with towels
In April 2026, Neumeier travelled together with Nemuel Feurle For the first time, they were off to Dumbarton Rock. They had seven days to figure out if the route was even doable for them, especially given its reputation for very long reaches. Scotland greeted them with torrential rain, and the route was mostly wet. The solution was more pragmatic than one might expect: Neumeier and Feurle dried the line with towels, allowing them to work out the entire route. After five days on top rope, all the moves and placements were perfect. Towards the end of the trip, they made their first lead attempts, which, according to Neumeier, felt surprisingly good. "After that, I was completely hooked," the climber from the Allgäu region said in a press statement.
Lara Neumeier is making climbing history
She spent the last year climbing the Alpine Trilogy, as well as multi-pitch and trad routes in Norway. After four to five weeks of focused preparation, she returned to Scotland at the end of September. This time, things went smoothly from the start. She spent two days working on top-roping ascents of individual sections, followed by lead climbing attempts.
I made progress almost every day, even if it sometimes felt like baby steps. I realized that this is the hardest route I've ever attempted.
Lara Neumeier
On October 7th, the professional athlete achieved the ascent. She became the first woman to climb a trad route graded E11, placing all her own protection while lead climbing. "It really is possible," she explained at the top, adding, "I think more women should attempt the line."
Three site visits in just a few days
Since its first ascent, some of the strongest trad climbers have attempted "Rhapsody". Among those who have repeated the route are Sonnie Trotter and Steve McClure. James Pearson and Jacopo Larcher. In the autumn of 2026, the list saw some movement. Briton Buster Martin climbed the route a few days before Neumeier. Nemuel Feurle, Neumeier's climbing partner on this project, followed with his own ascent just hours after hers.
Working on the route with Buster and Nemo was so much fun. Seeing Buster climb it a few days before and Nemo just a few hours after I did was amazing. All the locals were so welcoming and supportive.
Lara Neumeier
Trust as the real crux of the matter
For Neumeier, "Rhapsody" isn't the first big name on her resume. She was part of the first all-female team to free climb "El Corazón," a 1.000-meter route on El Capitan. She also recently became the first woman to complete the Alpen Trilogy within just one year. Regarding climbers who hesitate before taking on big projects, Neumeier comments: "It's really important that we as women have the self-confidence and trust in ourselves to try really difficult things. In the end, we see that it somehow works out." For 20 years, the ascent list for "Rhapsody" consisted exclusively of men. Since October 7th, that's history. A milestone for women in trad climbing.
Interview with the Allgäu professional athlete:
You can hear even more about Lara Neumeier, her mindset and her love for climbing in our interview with her.
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