How do I use crampons correctly on rock? How should I behave in bare ice, cornices, or when falling? Professional mountaineer, mountain guide, and physiotherapist Michi Wohlleben explains in the first episode of their joint training series what really matters when climbing with crampons and gives you valuable tips for the high-altitude mountaineering season.
In our joint training series, Michi shares his knowledge gained from over two decades in the mountains. This episode is dedicated to... High-altitude tour preparationCrampon technique on rock, behavior on cornices, and arresting falls on snow and ice. Michi goes through the exact situations where statistically many accidents occur and explains how best to prepare before having to react in an emergency.
Timing is crucial: Put on your crampons early.
A classic mistake on high-altitude tours is putting on crampons too late. Sure, it's often annoying to be on rocky terrain with crampons, but putting them on only when you're on steep or dangerous ground increases the risk of missteps. So:
- Put on crampons too early rather than too late
- The crampons should fit snugly and cleanly – adjust them to your boots before the tour and make sure they are securely clamped.
- The protruding straps must be tied and stowed away correctly.
Safety on ice is primarily about technology.
Bare ice is not easy terrain. Most beginners make the same mistakes. The recommendation is therefore clear: safe crampon technique is not learned on the tour, but beforehand. Mountain guide Michi also advises practicing movements on easy terrain, consciously training and repeating techniques, and making mistakes where they have the least consequences. Real development happens in training, not on the challenging tour itself. When descending with crampons, you should pay attention to the following points:
- Try to get as many spikes into the ice as possible.
- Pay attention to a strong position and torso tension
- The feet should be actively placed downhill in the direction of the jagged edges.
- Slightly V-shaped step, due to the serration geometry, so the serrations bite better.
Why training grounds are crucial:
Clean footwork and controlled, deliberate movements are paramount on high-altitude tours. Michi Wohlleben repeatedly emphasizes to his guests that practice terrain is not a step backward, but rather essential for their own safety. On "easy" terrain, clean footwork can be practiced, leading to a better feel for the terrain and gear.
Sword of Damocles: Crampons in the rock
When firn transitions to rock, uncertainty often arises. Crampons often feel insecure and wobbly on rock. Michi advises keeping the crampons on for longer periods during training tours, even if the points probably won't appreciate it. Walking with crampons on mixed terrain also requires practice, and here too, the correct technique makes a crucial difference. Those who tend to walk on their toes with crampons to get the front points onto smaller edges as effectively as possible can find some better tips here:
- Try to consciously involve your heel in the movement as often as possible.
- Look out for "steps" – where can I stand well, where is there plenty of room for my crampon?
- Pay attention to stability and body tension
When practicing safe walking with crampons on rock, make sure there is no risk of falling!
Beware of cornices
Cornices are wind-transported, highly compacted snow deposits that form on ridges and terrain edges. Essentially, they are free-floating snow overhangs on the leeward side. This is precisely where their danger lies: beneath the seemingly load-bearing snowpack, there is nothing. If you step too far out, the cornice will break off, often not at the visible edge, but several meters beyond it. These snow deposits are among the greatest objective hazards on high-altitude tours. Their load-bearing capacity is difficult to assess, and therein lies the risk. Therefore:
- Always keep the weight on the back leg, close to the rock.
- Keep your distance from the edge
- Approach only carefully and from above or the side.
- Avoid putting as much strain on the cornice as possible.
One of the most typical accident scenarios here is a descent that's too steep: the slope becomes too steep to walk forward, you turn around – and suddenly you're hanging belly-on over the edge, your feet are out of sight, and your weight tips backward. Michi's method is to "clear out" the steps from above, ensuring your feet have the best possible grip before you even have to lean over the edge. Your weight stays up top, and the ice axe provides security in case a foothold slips. For hard spots: take your time and make sure the pimple really stays put before you get excess weight on your back.
Fall arrest techniques must be practiced.
Fall arrest is one of the most important skills on high-altitude tours and should must be practiced before the season.Regular training under safe conditions is important:
- in flat terrain with sufficient space to run around
- without crampons to avoid injuries
- The key here is a quick response:
- Bring pimples to the underside of the torso
- Press your knees and elbows into the ground
- Use body weight strategically
- do not stop actively braking
So: from the sliding position, roll onto your stomach, get onto your knees and elbows, and get your boots out of the snow; otherwise, you'll flip over as soon as the front points engage. Only once this basic movement is mastered should you add the ice axe: it brakes best when it's positioned under your chest and your body weight is on it.
Images above: In the video, Michi demonstrates how to correctly break a fall; below: Michi demonstrates what happens if the feet are not lifted in time.
Conclusion: Practice decides
High-altitude mountaineering requires a combination of technique, experience, and preparation. The most important fundamentals can be trained, provided you consciously invest time in practice and repetition. Michi's video provides an overview of key aspects of high-altitude tour preparation. However, the visual presentation and his thorough, clear explanations are far more important. He makes movement sequences, timing, and small tricks immediately visible and offers excellent guidance for preparing for your next tour.
Anyone who wants to improve their safety on high-altitude tours will find our joint instructional video a valuable addition to their own preparation.
Click here for the video:
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Credits cover photo: Maximilian Gierl