The two rockfalls on Mont Blanc and most recently on the Matterhorn show how Heat and melting permafrost are exacerbating the danger for mountaineers. While there is currently an acute risk throughout the Alps, climbing is continuing in some areas.
In recent weeks, serious rockfalls have occurred on two of the most famous peaks in the Alps: On July 15, a Czech mountain guide and his companion died on the notorious Grand Couloir of Mont Blanc (4.807 m) due to a rockfall, and a third member of the rope team was injured.
On August 5th, a section of rock also broke off the south face of the Matterhorn (4.478 m) at an altitude of approximately 3.900 meters – no one was injured. In the preceding weeks, Zermatt mountain guides had already advised against climbing the mountain. The reason: the increased risk of rockfall due to the current heat wave.
Danger due to lack of snow cover and thawing permafrost
It's not unusual for warnings about rockfalls and landslides to be issued during particularly hot summers. However, experts say it's remarkably early that Zermatt mountain guides have been advising against climbing the Matterhorn since mid-July this year.
The danger is so high so early for two reasons: because of the thawing permafrost (Subsoil of earth or rock that has been frozen continuously for at least two years) and the missing snow coverWithout permafrost, the alpine terrain becomes increasingly destabilized. Where mountaineers would normally walk on a snow track, they are now walking on looser, rocky ground, often triggering rockfalls that can hit others.
Record-breaking summer exacerbates the situation in the Alps
For years, the ice sheets and glaciers in the Alps have been shrinking due to climate change. The summer of 2026 exacerbated the already tense situation: According to the EU climate service Copernicus, parts of Europe experienced record high temperatures. the hottest June and July since records began experienced1The zero-degree line in the Alps also approached 5.000 meters this year – on average it lies between 3.000 and 4.000 meters in summer.2
From shrinkage to disintegration: Alpine Club glacier report reveals dramatic development
Especially in areas of the mountain that are already dangerous, this will make them even more perilous in the height of summer. This includes the Grand Couloir, or "Death Couloir," on the French normal route up Mont Blanc at an altitude of over 3.000 meters. Every year, particularly during the summer months, there are severe rockfalls there, making the traverse the most dangerous section of the highest mountain in the Alps. The fatal accident on July 15th also occurred on the Grand Couloir.
Despite warnings, climbers continue.
Even though mountain guides strongly advise against climbing the Matterhorn and have currently suspended guided tours, this apparently doesn't deter some climbers. According to a report by Alpin magazine according to this, last weekend several private groups on the Hörnligrat ridge On the road. This is shown by pictures on social media that were uploaded by a private individual.
Despite the danger to life, climbing the Matterhorn is not forbidden: Although the mountain guide associations of Italy and Switzerland warn against it, the routes to the summit are currently open. not officially bannedThe challenging Italian normal route via the Liongrat is not affected by the rockfall, and the Carrel hut remains accessible, although not staffed.
For the Valais Cantonal Rescue Organisation (KWRO), the current situation means remaining ready for deployment. 2026 is already a record year in terms of deployment numbers.Between January 1st and July 15th, 1.656 people required the assistance of mountain rescue services. Even under ideal conditions, the Matterhorn is considered one of the most difficult and dangerous peaks in Europe.
Mayor refuses free helicopter rescue to 32 climbers on Mont Blanc
Even on Mont Blanc, some mountaineers have so far ignored the stark warnings. As Explorers Web reportsOn August 11, 32 people ascended to the currently closed Goûter Hut (3.835 m). On August 12, the climbers, hesitant to descend via the dangerous Grand Couloir, requested a free helicopter rescue from the French mountain rescue service. The mayor of Saint-Gervais, Jean-Marc Peillex, refused, citing existing warnings. Some of the climbers then arranged for rescue through private organizations – and paid the bill themselves.
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Credits cover photo: Adobe Stock/Standard license, file no. 1039279248