In 2022 they attempted the west ridge of Gasherbrum III (7958m) for the first time, this season the expedition of Tom Livingstone and Ales Cesen was successful: During 7 days they opened the route Edge of Entropy in alpine style and at the same time secured only the third complete ascent of the 15th highest mountain in the world.
The Gasherbrum III With a height of 7958 meters, it is only slightly lower than its two larger siblings, Gasherbrum I (8080m) and Gasherbrum II (8035m). Since it just misses the magical 8000m mark, it is largely uninteresting for commercial expeditions. This makes the rarely climbed Karakoram giant all the more attractive and challenging for experienced mountaineers.
On 4 August, the British Tom Livingstone and the Slovenian All Cesen alone on the remote summit. The strong duo had succeeded in climbing Gasherbrum III for the first time via its impressive west ridge. Their first ascent in alpine style took a full seven days.
For a long time I dreamed of climbing a technical and hard alpine route at high altitude (~8000m).
Tom Livingstone
What is possible in which style?
Livingstone and Cesen had already attempted to climb Gasherbrum III in 2022, but had to abort their expedition due to bad weather. However, the desire to combine their experiences from the Alps, Alaska or the Canadian Rockies on one of the highest mountains in the world remained.
"What is the hardest route we can climb at high altitude? How far can we push our limits?" ponders Tom Livingstone. And so they tackled the west ridge of the 15th highest mountain in the world for the second time this season.
When they climbed the wall, they threw their expectations, worries and ideas overboard and simply moved upwards, "with a curious mind and a silently collaborating body." The altitude really bothered them and slowed their progress, says the British mountaineer.
Mountaineering is a beautiful trap between what you want and what you need.
Tom Livingstone
Livingstone describes the altitude as a huge challenge that wears you down. "Although I recognize the effort of all those who climb mountains with supplemental oxygen, on groomed trails, with tents in place, with Sherpa support and fixed ropes, their style of mountaineering is miles different from ours."
Edge of Entropy: «One of my most difficult routes»
Tom Livingstone describes his and Ales Cesen's new tour of Gasherbrum III as one of the most difficult routes he has ever climbed. "A highlight of a decade, and even our third bivouac, sitting and without a tent at an altitude of 7800 meters, will remain in my memory."
For the descent, the two alpinists traversed to the normal route of Gasherbrum II and followed the fixed ropes down. This changed their style somewhat, but made sense in the situation, says Livingstone.
On the 7th day of their ascent of Edge of Entropy along the west ridge of Gasherbrum III, Tom Livingstone and Ales Cesen reached base camp.
That might interest you
- Large winter line repeated in the Triglav north face | The Dream Couloir
- Vadim Druelle doubles with speed ascents of Gasherbrum I and II to
- Urubko's winter expedition on Gasherbrum I ends with a fall into a crevasse and frostbite
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Tom Livingstone & All Cesen