Fay Manners opens »Nostalgie Alpine« – New mixed route on the Roc Noir in Arolla

In March 2026, Fay Manners, Marco Malcangi, and Max Kilcoyne established one of Switzerland's most exciting new mixed routes on the central face of the Roc Noir above Arolla. "Nostalgie Alpine"—325 meters, nine pitches, M8 A0—is a statement for exploratory alpinism in a valley that seemed long forgotten.

Female first ascensionists in mixed climbing are still relatively rare. Only around seven percent of alpinists nominated for the Piolets d'Or are women. Yet they do exist, these women who consistently develop new winter routes: Ines Papert, who was the first woman ever to climb the mixed grade M11 and has since amassed first ascents worldwide in ice and mixed terrain. Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev, who in 2024 achieved the first ascent of Lalung I in the Indian Himalayas – five days, alpine style, M6+ AI5+. Or Masha Gordon, who specifically promotes first ascents by women with the Grit & Rock Expedition Award. Fay Manners joins this lineage and tells us about her new route on Roc Noir.

Untouched center of the wall – five years after the failed attempt

Two moderate routes already exist on the left and right edges of the rock face at Roc Noir. The central face remains untouched for a long time. An earlier attempt by a team five years ago ended in retreat because the route was too dangerous and the protection too inadequate. When a stable high-pressure system establishes itself over the Alps at the beginning of March, Fay Manners sees her opportunity. The British alpinist has already started the winter with the routes "Sans Broncher" in Sembrancher and "Elles Aussi" on the Tête aux Chamois. Now a significantly larger project is on the agenda. On March 3, the team arrives in Arolla and studies the face with binoculars: Where are the weak points? Where would a direct line find its way?

Nine rope lengths at the limit

On March 4th and 5th, Manners, Malcangi, and Kilcoyne established the first five pitches. The hoped-for hanging ice column on the first pitch was missing – the conditions were too dry. Instead, they encountered technical mixed terrain: rock, snow, and thin frozen structures. The frozen moss on large sections of the wall demanded precise footwork and delicate movements. Because natural protection was scarce – cracks for cams or pitons were almost nonexistent – ​​the three climbers bolted while lead climbing. As their gear ran low, the team took a break on March 6th, added more bolts, and returned on March 9th. On March 10th and 11th, they completed the remaining pitches. Two sections, however, remained aided (A0): the crux move in the sixth pitch with poor holds and complicated positions for the ice tools, and the initial sequence of moves in the final roof pitch, which prevented all three climbers from free climbing. Manners led the most difficult rope lengths of the ascent, including the two complicated A0 passages.

Safety for successors – environmentally conscious bolting, preserving the alpine atmosphere

After the first ascent, on the evening of March 11th, the team removed all fixed ropes, replaced bolts, and cleared loose rock. The route is prepared for repeat ascents – but it's not a walk in the park. Manners and her team installed rappel points on each pitch to ensure a retreat in bad weather. Where ice would be suitable for slings in good winters, they placed bolts so the line remains climbable even in warmer seasons. Traditional protection was retained on the few solid cracks to preserve the alpine character of the route. A one-day ascent is possible, but requires a descent in the dark.

"Nostalgia Alpine" – An Invitation

The team didn't choose the name by chance. Arolla still exudes the atmosphere of early alpinism: no lift closures, wild peaks directly above the valley, and hardly any modern adventure infrastructure. During the development phase, the team stayed at the historic "Grand Hôtel Kurhaus," opened in 1896 by Honorine Gaspo and a base for British and Swiss first ascensionists during the Belle Époque. More than a century later, Manners, Malcangi, and Kilcoyne are now establishing a new route above the same valley. According to Manners, "Nostalgie Alpine" stands as a logical conclusion to a strong mixed climbing season and as an invitation: Arolla still has lines to offer for all those who crave a true alpine adventure.

Facts about the route:

• Route: Nostalgia Alpine
• Mountain: Roc Noir, Arolla (Switzerland)
• Grade: M8 A0 Length: 325m / 9 rope lengths
• First ascent: March 2026
• Team: Fay Manners, Marco Malcangi, Max Kilcoyne

Who is Fay Manners?

Fay Manners, born in Bedford in 1987, is a British alpinist and ski mountaineer. She transitioned from a career in the technology sector to professional sports. Her introduction to climbing began rather by chance: on a bouldering wall in New York, followed by her first mountain tours in Wales. In 2015, she moved to Chamonix. What followed was a remarkable career in modern alpinism: in recent years, she has established over twenty first ascents. These include the mixed route "Waa Shakil" (6b/M5) on the 6.327-meter-high Trango II in Pakistan, as well as big wall routes in Greenland and Patagonia up to 7b+. She has also made first ascents of steep ski routes in the Alps and, in 2022, the first all-female ascent of "Phantom Direct" on the Grandes Jorasses – one of the longest ice routes in the Mont Blanc massif. Manners herself summarizes her motivation as follows: She wants to tell stories that show women what is possible and that it is never too late to start over. There is room for courageous, creative female voices in outdoor sports.

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Credits: Cover image: Fay Manners