Patagonia offers not only impressive wilderness but also many unexplored rock faces. In the Argentinian north of the region, an all-female expedition team has now completed the multi-pitch route Apollo 13 (600m, 7b+) on the previously unclimbed El Cohete wall. freed.
With its impressive landscape and iconic mountains such as Cerro Torre and Cerro Chalten, Patagonia It's a lifelong destination for many climbers. At the same time, many of the region's hidden treasures remain – an expedition of international climbers has set out to discover them.
We are all driven by a deep love and motivation for climbing and exploring new places.
The expedition team around Caroline North
5 women 5 weeks away from civilization
The expedition team includes five experienced climbers from different countries, bringing together experience from different areas of the sport. Belen Prados, Caroline North, Fay Manners, Rocio Rodriguez Guiñazu and Julia Cassou spent five weeks in January and February in the isolation of the Valle del Turbio IV in Northern Patagonia.
Inspired by stories of visionary first ascents from the 80s, the team embarked on an expedition into the valley—accessible only by horseback and a two-day hike, including all equipment. A hut located slightly higher up and deep in the Argentine rainforest served as the starting point for access to the Turbio IV valley.
New multi-pitch route on an unclimbed wall
In addition to exploring the landscape and rocks, the expedition team's goal from the outset was to leave a new, inviting route for posterity. They chose the previously completely unclimbed wall known as El Cohete (The Rocket).
During the first ascent, our goal was to create a route that would be repeated happily and would therefore be motivating and safe.
Setting up the route proved to be much more difficult than expected – primarily due to the recurring heavy rainfall in the valley. Even when accessing the first few pitches, the team was forced to return to the hut in heavy rain. The resupply – also only possible by horse – required special planning by the five-person expedition team.
More than a month of hard work, logistics, and decisions paid off, and in the end, we made the first landing on Apollo 13.
Caroline North
After five weeks of work, Prados, North, Manners, Guiñazu, and Cassou finally freed the line, which they named Apollo 13 after the wall's name. The result: 13 pitches of 50 meters each with varied and consistent free climbing up to grade 7b+. To minimize the impact on nature, the team installed bolts only where absolutely necessary.
Granite quality that is in no way inferior to Yosemite
The climbers around Swiss Caroline North were particularly surprised by the high quality of the rock in Valle del Turbio IV: "The quality of the granite in every single pitch and also the variety of corners, cracks and slabs is incredibly good."
Caroline North has recently been traveling a lot in Yosemite and climbed the famous big wall route there last November Freerider free climbed with Amelie Kühne. For her, Apollo 13 is in no way inferior to Yosemite granite—and represents Patagonia's enormous undiscovered potential.
The granite quality of Apollo 13 is in no way inferior to Yosemite – only getting there was an adventure.
Caroline North
The women's expedition in pictures
The French photographer Julia Cassou As part of the expedition team, she documented the efforts of the five women in Northern Patagonia in an impressive series of images.
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Credits cover photo: Julia Cassou