Frenchmen Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean have completed another difficult first ascent in the Himalayas. In Nepal, they made the first ascent of the seven-thousander Jannu East via its steep north face—in alpine style, of course.
They have fulfilled a long-held dream: The two French alpinists Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean were the first people in the world to reach the summit of Jannu East (7.468 m) in Nepal via the 2.300 m high north face.
Acclimatization at Anidesh Chuli
The duo continues its successful time in Himalayas It was not until the end of September that Védrines and Jean first ascent of the remote Anidesh Chuli (6.808 m), a previously unexplored six-thousander in the eastern Himalayas. The project served primarily to acclimatize for the expedition to Jannu. Although this is not part of the Kangchenjungamassif, but also belongs to its eastern Himalayan foothills.
A childhood dream comes true: An untouched peak, a huge wall, and technical alpine-style mountaineering in a real rope team.
Benjamin Vedrines
Four days to the perfect Himalayan summit
For their project, Védrines and Jean first climbed Jannu East via the imposing 2.300-meter-long north face. They then followed the narrow east ridge up to the summit. As is typical in alpine climbing, they dispensed with bottled oxygen, fixed ropes, high camps, and Sherpa support.
Benjamin Védrines, who regularly pushes the boundaries of high-altitude mountaineering with record-breaking ascents, calls the four days on Jannu East his "career highlight so far as an alpinist." Together with Nicolas Jean, he invested two months in the expedition, which he believes offers the ideal ingredients for a perfect Himalayan experience: concentration, effort, self-overcoming, and emotion.
A beautiful climb, one I'm very happy with. What an adventure, what a team!
Benjamin Vedrines
Previous attempt in 2024 had failed
This is not Benjamin Védrine's first attempt to climb the 7.468-meter-high Jannu East via the north face. Last year, the 33-year-old was there with Nicolas Jean and Leo Billon on the way when Billon's acute altitude sickness forced the trio to turn back.
According to Védrines, the reason for this was too rapid acclimatization, as they had to take advantage of an early weather window. This time, the two Frenchmen, Védrines and Jean, were together and took more time to acclimatize to the altitude.
At the beginning of October, Védrines said in Interview with Lacruxwhat he would do differently this time:
"For the ascent, we will stick to the strategy we had planned back then: We want to try to reach the summit in three days. […] The only difference from last year is that we plan to sleep at the base of the wall instead of setting off directly from Base Camp. This should save us energy."
Benjmain Védrines
Another major concern for Védrines and Jean was the entire final section from 7.000 meters: "There's a long snow ridge that's very steep at the beginning. If the snow is too deep, it could force us to turn back." The Himalayan weather blessed the duo with almost ideal conditions—and the rest is another piece of alpine history.
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Credits cover photo: Benjamin Vedrines