The Bern climber Silvan Schüpbach succeeded in the 27. April 2019 the first ascent of a Tradroute at the Torre di Aimonin in the Valle dell Orco, Italy. He rates the new line Conosci il tuo gatto with 8b.
The route is 50 meters long and offers a mix of crack, intersection and wall climbing. The rock quality is exceptionally good and the climbing is very nice. Silvan discovered the line on April 17, 2019 at the Torre di Aimonin and cleaned and planned it for five days. For the red point ascent, he set two peckers with the hammer and left them. He did not use the two bolts in the exit (Route Cani & Gatti). The route can also be safely climbed without bolts.
Less is more: The Valle dell Orco is to remain an adventure playground
The Valle dell Orco still has great potential for first-class granite climbing. Silvan Schüpbach The aim of the route is to minimize the use of bolts so that the Valle dell Orco remains an adventure playground.
Details about the Route Conosci il tuo gatto
The route Conosci il tuo gatto is a combination of the routes Know yourself and Cani & Gatti. The best way to plan the route is to set up a top rope in the Cani & Gatti route. Because of its length, an 80-meter rope is rather scarce. It is recommended to use a longer rope. To secure the route you need micro wedges, wedges and a rack cams (0.2 - 3).
Video about Rolando Larcher in the Cani & Gatti route
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Credits: Pictures Silvan Schüpbach