Despite severe endometriosis: Svana Bjanarson climbs »Joe Blau« (8c+) in Oliana

Svana Bjarnason has completed her hardest route to date with "Joe Blau" (8c+). The Icelandic climber suffers from severe endometriosis – a condition that receives little attention in climbing.

Approximately one in ten women of childbearing age is affected by endometriosis – this corresponds to 190 million people worldwideOne of them is the Icelandic climber Svana Bjarnason. The 34-year-old recently used her ascent of "Joe Blau" (8c+) to draw attention to the disease, which is still often diagnosed late or underestimated.

Success on the rock despite extreme form of endometriosis

On May 17, 2026, Svana Bjarnason clipped the anchor of "Joe Blau" (8c+), one of the most famous routes in Europe at this grade. The approximately 50-meter-long route in Oliana, Catalonia, is considered a true endurance test piece and demands the highest levels of physical and mental resilience.

Bjarnason, who suffers from an extreme form of endometriosis, completed the route despite severe pain and only eight months after surgery related to her condition. A personal highlight as an athlete and an even more impressive achievement as a chronically ill competitive athlete.

The road to the top was anything but easy for the Icelandic skier. "This season has been an emotional rollercoaster," Bjarnason wrote on Instagram. "I've constantly been fighting against my own body – because unfortunately, endometriosis doesn't just go away."

What is endometriosis?

Endometriosis is a chronic, often extremely painful condition that affects one in ten women during their lifetime. In this condition, tissue similar to the uterine lining grows outside the uterus.

For those affected, this means severe pain, inflammation, and significant limitations in daily life. Endometriosis is also one of the most common causes of infertility. As a chronic disease, endometriosis is, according to current medical knowledge, incurable.

Although the disease affects an estimated 2 to 4 million women in Germany alone, It often takes several years from the first symptoms to diagnosis.. With increasing social awareness of endometriosis, the number of diagnoses is also rising – another reason why Svana Bjarnason wants to draw attention to the issue.

Documentary film about competitive sports & endometriosis in production

For elite athletes like Bjarnason, endometriosis presents an additional physical and mental challenge. "Chronic illnesses in top-level sports are often an invisible burden for those affected," says the Icelandic athlete.

A documentary film about Svana Bjarnason's journey in climbing, her experience with endometriosis, and her ascent of "Joe Blau" will be released later this year. Several film screenings are also planned in Germany – further information will be announced soon.

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Credits cover photo: Svana Bjarnason