Hundreds of spectators watched as the Tyrolean climber clipped the anchor of Seb Bouin's "DNA" in the Verdon Gorge. With his live ascent, Schubert created a climbing moment that will go down in history – as the first repeat of a 9c route, currently the highest grade in sport climbing.
Jakob Schubert He did it: On October 10th, the 35-year-old successfully completed the ascent of "DNA" in La Ramirole. As with his ascent of "BIG" (9c) in Flatanger three years ago, the livestream was broadcast on Schubert's YouTube account. in the ninth live attempt.
About the route
The world's second 9c route was established in the La Ramirole climbing area in France. The routes on the wall are long and steep, and "DNA" is no exception. First ascent Sébastien Bouin has invested three years in DNA, from drilling and setting up, through bouldering, to the final ascent on April 29, 2022.
This passion project, with which Bouin wanted to truly challenge himself, has taken 150 days and more than 250 attempts. The Frenchman long debated whether the route should be graded 9b+ or 9c.
I have never attempted a similar route with a similar level of difficulty to DNA.
First ascentionist Seb Bouin
Schubert confirms grade 9c: “The hardest route of my life”
That Schubert would also rate "DNA" 9c was considered highly likely even before his ascent. The Austrian had repeatedly hinted in his YouTube videos that it could be one of the hardest routes in the world – "if not the hardest." Schubert knows what he's talking about: he is one of only five climbers to have successfully completed a route currently considered to be graded 9c.
Five is the key word: None of the world's five 9c routes had been repeated before – until now. Schubert's ascent of "DNA" is therefore nothing less than the first confirmation of the highest grade in sport climbingShould the difficulty level of "BIG", Schubert's first 9c, also be confirmed, the Tyrolean would be the first and only climber to have climbed two of these routes.
A day I'll never forget. More on that soon, but first we have to celebrate!
Jakob Schubert shortly after his re-run of “DNA”
That might interest you
- Jakob Schubert rates BIG 9c | formerly Project Big
- Everything you always wanted to know about Silence (9c) | Stefano Ghisolfi
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Credits Cover image: Michael Piccolruaz