The Slovenian Jernej Kruder managed to free climb the big wall route El Corazon (35 SL, 8a) on El Capitan. He spent a total of four days on the wall with his rope partner Dirk Uhlig.
"I am very happy with my performance and at the same time glad that I was able to climb together with my good friend Dirk Uhlig, who made the whole experience very calm and fun," enthuses Jernej KruderA few days ago he was denied free access to El corazon (35 SL, 8a) on El Capitan succeeded.
The route by Alexander Huber and Max Reichel from 2001 is a combination of Salathé, Albatross, Son of Heart and Heart Route as well as some newly established variants that connect the freely accessible sections of the existing routes.
Brilliant start
On the first day of their ascent, the duo really stepped on the gas and climbed 17 pitches, almost half of the entire route. "We climbed to the Beak Flake and then abseiled down to the Mammoth Terrace," says Jernej Kruder. Although it was in full sun, he was able to climb the Beak Flake, which is rated 8a, on his second attempt.
The next day they climbed the 180 meters to the Beak Flake, hauled their luggage up and freed five more rope lengths in the blazing sun. In the 7c rope length, Jernej Kruder managed to get through the crux in his onsight attempt, but not through the following passage. Accordingly, he needed a second attempt to free this difficult rope length as well.
Difficult roof traverse onsight
In contrast to day two, on the third day the two climbed primarily in the shade and managed to get through the corners to the infamous Roof Traverse. Jernej freed the Coffee Corner, rated 7c+, with a few well-placed safety devices on the first attempt. The crowning glory of this successful day was Jernej's onsight ascent of the Roof Traverse (8a).
The remaining pitches on day four did not pose a major obstacle on the way to free climbing El Corazon, especially since Jernej Kruder already knew this section of the route from previous visits to Yosemite Valley. "We started the morning leisurely before really pushing ourselves to the top."
That might interest you
- Jernej Kruder conquers 9a hybrid route with offwidth topout
- Jernej Kruder repeats Ticino crack test piece Butterfly Circus (8b)
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Jernej Kruder