Sean Bailey became only the fifth climber ever to assign the highest difficulty grade of 9c to a route. The American invested four years and three seasons in his project, "Duality of Man" in Dry Canyon..
Instead of a long press release, it Sean bailey He was characteristically modest in announcing his most difficult ascents. On Monday, the 29-year-old reported on Instagram about the first ascent of his project "Duality of Man".
The US climber has assigned the route in Dry Canyon (Arizona) the highest current difficulty grade of 9c. There are only three other routes worldwide. lines of this degreeNone of these ascents have been confirmed by repeat ascentionists. Should Bailey's claim prove true, "Duality of Man" would be the hardest route in the USA. According to insiders, he had already climbed the route in early 2025 and withheld the news until now.
This is the hardest thing I've ever attempted. I've never been so obsessed with a project.
Sean bailey
"I had to bring a new level of patience."
We don't yet know much about Bailey's "Duality of Man." The limestone route is located in Dry Canyon in southern Arizona—a climbing area known for its long and steep lines. Sean Bailey spent a total of three climbing seasons over four years there, dedicating himself to his toughest project to date. The route certainly didn't make it easy for him.
The unsettled weather conditions in Dry Canyon proved to be a major problem, as did the many hours of sunshine. "There were no easy tactics in Dry Canyon," he writes. Bailey on Instagram. "The route was only in the shade for one or two hours each day. [...] I had to have a level of patience that I've never encountered in any other project."
After four years and three seasons, I was finally able to climb "Duality of Man".
Sean bailey
Sean Bailey: First ascensionist of 9c and 9A
For Sean Bailey, "Duality of Man" is not only his first 9c, but also his first jump to a new difficulty level since repeating "Bibliography“(9b+) almost five years ago. The former competition climber is much more frequently found on difficult boulder problems than on hard sport climbing routes. In addition to numerous 8C and 8C+ boulder problems, he has so far managed three 9As:”Shaolin(First ascent, grade now confirmed)alphanes" and "Arrival of the Birds«.
Sean Bailey is currently the only climber in the world to have made the first ascent of both a 9A boulder and – should repeat ascents confirm the grade – a 9c sport climbing route.
All four 9cs are waiting for repetitions.
"Duality of Man" joins the short but growing list of 9c routes, all of which have yet to be repeated. Adam Ondra's "Silence« and Jakob Schubert's »BIG« in Flatanger as well as Seb Bouins »DNA:"The extent of the damage in the Verdon Gorge is currently unconfirmed."
Sean Bailey is now the fifth climber worldwide to have assigned the highest difficulty grade to a first ascent. Besides Ondra, Schubert, and Bouin, he had also Alex Megos Originally proposed for "Bibliography" was 9c – a relatively quick repetition by Stefano Ghisolfi He later revised it to 9b+.
The short film will soon be released in the Mellow Film Tour.
The story behind Sean Bailey's "Duality of Man" will be presented as part of the film tour by Mellow climbing The book, which launches on February 27th in the USA, will be released soon. A first teaser for his and other difficult ascents is already available on YouTube.
That might interest you
- "Arrival of the Birds" (9A) gets its first repeat | Sean Bailey in Chironico
- Sean Bailey continues his winning streak and climbs Alphane (9A)
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Credits cover photo: Mellow Climbing