After more than 30 years, Daniel Benz and Marcel Dettling have now completed what Andreas Audétat began in 1991: the "Saguaro" route on the Gamstobelwand in the Rätikon, a ten-pitch tour with difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a.
Hart, complex with a maximum sharpness, this is certainly how you can characterize this route.
Marcel Dettling
Project start in the Rätikon: 1991
Audétat discovered the route in October 1991 and attempted it on three consecutive days with three different climbing partners. According to him, it's the most continuous route on the Gamstobel face. It's uninterrupted by ledges or overhangs, which is why he first became aware of it.
To make faster progress, the pitons were often used. All pitons, except for one spot on the seventh pitch, were placed from the climbing position.
A year later, Andreas returned to free climb the route, as far as he had bolted it. However, he discovered that the difficulty of the route was significantly higher than he had anticipated when bolting it. Thus, the "Saguaro" project ended with a free ascent on the seventh pitch. Audétat had bolted the route up to the third bolt of what is now the ninth pitch.
Five meters to the right or left
Daniel Benz works for EastBolt. The association aims to promote safety in climbing, rehabilitates routes, and maintains them. Routes in Audétat were also rehabilitated by EastBolt, which is how the two climbers finally came up with the unfinished project in Rätikon to speak.
I was immediately motivated to try to complete this line, but I was doubtful whether I – as a soon-to-be father of three – would find the necessary time for it.
Daniel Benz
Benz, however, couldn't resist at least taking a look at the route. So, in August, he and Dominic Eggenberger set out for the Gamstobelwand, near St. Antönien in Graubünden, Switzerland. They abseiled from the summit to the highest point reached by Andreas Audétat and bolted the remaining 50m in lead climbing. They then looked for a climbable solution for Audétat's seventh pitch. An undertaking that proved impossible. They therefore opted for a new route and found one five meters further to the right in the rock. The seventh pitch was also terminated at the previously unclimbable point, and a belay was set up there. From there, the eighth pitch now leads relatively straight up 20m.
The original topo by Andreas Audétat, next to it the changes in the line by Daniel Benz
First free ascent of »Saguaro«
Benz's next visits to the Gamstobelwand took place without a climbing partner. He replaced most of the bolts and began optimizing the route—of course, in consultation with Andreas Audétat.
After the entire route was repaired and completed, the first free ascent was scheduled. On September 7, Benz and Marcel Dettling started the route. Although the two wanted to climb the entire route, Benz didn't expect a redpoint for this attempt.
The biggest challenge seemed to me to be that I wouldn't exhaust myself or wear out my fingertips on the lower pitches by hesitating or climbing inefficiently.
Daniel Benz
He managed the first five pitches without any problems, but on the sixth pitch, he fell. Because he thought he certainly wouldn't be able to climb the remaining four pitches without falling, Benz decided against a second attempt. To his surprise, he succeeded. For this reason, the rope team decided to abseil west of the route, and Benz managed the sixth pitch on the second attempt.
Facts
Rätikon / Gamstobelwand – Saguaro 8a (7a+ obl.) – 10 SL, 255m – A. Audétat 1991 / D. Benz 2025
Material: 2x50m ropes, 11 quickdraws, cams/wedges not necessary and hardly usable
"A magnificent and impressive climb, the central section of which features several sustained pitches of high difficulty. The climbing, with its many small scrapes, sharp drops, and precipitous footholds, often requires a fair amount of technical wizardry. Merely strong athletic ability is unlikely to be sufficient for success; you simply have to be a really good climber. The rock quality is mostly very good; the prickly cactus rock offers excellent friction, but requires a correspondingly strong fingertip grip. In a few places, the structures used appear somewhat fragile, although everything held up during my/our attempt. The protection on the route was very tight in its original state. This was retained during the 2025 renovation, but almost all the BHs were replaced with stainless steel, their placement was partially optimized, and the belays were relocated to more comfortable locations." so Marcel Dettling
The topo can be accessed via this Link be downloaded.
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Credits: All images by Andreas Audétat, Daniel Benz and Marcel Dettling