Wild ride: Siebe Vanhee repeats iconic trad classics in Sweden

Siebe Vanhee is currently showing nerves of steel in the Swedish climbing area Bohuslän. On his first day in the area, the Belgian secured only the third repetition of the infamous Savage Horse line (8a, R/X), which was one of the most difficult routes in Scandinavia when it was first climbed in 1999.

Bohuslän in southwest Sweden is not known for its high walls. In return, the area offers a wide range of outstanding crack lines in a compact area and is also home to some tough trad routes. The puristic protection and the long runouts seemed Siebe Vanhee formally dressed. Already on his first day of climbing he repeated the mystical route Savage Horse (8a, R/X). The next day he got it Rätt Lätt (7c+, R, Flash) as well Minaret (7c+, R/X), which also require a healthy lead morale.

Savage Horse - A wild ride

As the Brit Leo holding When Savage Horse climbed the route for the first time in 1999, the 20-meter line was one of the boldest tours in all of Scandinavia. Secured to a single skyhook, a fall would have had fatal consequences. Hence the appraisal suffix R/X.

The seriousness of the line is also reflected in the number of repetitions. In the past 24 years, only two people have dared the tour. Plus now Siebe Vanhee.

In contrast to the first ascent, he did not secure the key point with the sketchy skyhook, says the strong Belgian. Local climbers discovered some small but good belay points, which eased the runout.

Video: Leo Holding on the first ascent of Savage Horse in 1999

Short routes, long runouts

The other two tours that Siebe Vanhee climbed in Bohuslän within the first two days are also among the absolute classics of the area. And even if they are a little less difficult to climb than Savage Horse, Rätt Lätt (7c+) and especially Minaret (7c+) require healthy nerves.

Video: Siebe Vanhee during his flash ascent of the Rätt Lätt route

For Siebe Vanhee, the Swedish trad climbing seems to trigger a real storm of enthusiasm: "Fantastic runout, beautiful climbing movements on a pure, exposed edge, followed by a technical dihedral," is how he praised the iconic Minaret line.

Video: Bird's eye view of the minaret line near Häller

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Kyrre Buxrud

News

IFSC Lead and Speed ​​World Cup Briançon | Info & Livestream

The last World Cup before the Olympics will take place in Briançon from July 17 to 19, 2024. Here you can find all the important information and live streams.

5 reasons to make a pilgrimage to the Alpine Mecca of Chamonix next year

Find out all about the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix: a superlative event for alpine enthusiasts from over 30 countries.

Ai Mori and Colin Duffy win Lead World Cup in Chamonix

The Lead World Cup in Chamonix 2024 is history: Japanese Ai Mori and American Colin Duffy win the gold medal.

These 68 climbers are qualified | Olympic Games Paris

Which climbers are qualified for the Olympic Games? We'll tell you in this article.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

IFSC Lead and Speed ​​World Cup Briançon | Info & Livestream

The last World Cup before the Olympics will take place in Briançon from July 17 to 19, 2024. Here you can find all the important information and live streams.

5 reasons to make a pilgrimage to the Alpine Mecca of Chamonix next year

Find out all about the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix: a superlative event for alpine enthusiasts from over 30 countries.

Ai Mori and Colin Duffy win Lead World Cup in Chamonix

The Lead World Cup in Chamonix 2024 is history: Japanese Ai Mori and American Colin Duffy win the gold medal.