Siebe Vanhee is currently showing nerves of steel in the Swedish climbing area Bohuslän. On his first day in the area, the Belgian secured only the third repetition of the infamous Savage Horse line (8a, R/X), which was one of the most difficult routes in Scandinavia when it was first climbed in 1999.
Bohuslän in southwest Sweden is not known for its high walls. In return, the area offers a wide range of outstanding crack lines in a compact area and is also home to some tough trad routes. The puristic protection and the long runouts seemed Siebe Vanhee formally dressed. Already on his first day of climbing he repeated the mystical route Savage Horse (8a, R/X). The next day he got it Rätt Lätt (7c+, R, Flash) as well Minaret (7c+, R/X), which also require a healthy lead morale.
Savage Horse - A wild ride
As the Brit Leo holding When Savage Horse climbed the route for the first time in 1999, the 20-meter line was one of the boldest tours in all of Scandinavia. Secured to a single skyhook, a fall would have had fatal consequences. Hence the appraisal suffix R/X.
The seriousness of the line is also reflected in the number of repetitions. In the past 24 years, only two people have dared the tour. Plus now Siebe Vanhee.
In contrast to the first ascent, he did not secure the key point with the sketchy skyhook, says the strong Belgian. Local climbers discovered some small but good belay points, which eased the runout.
Video: Leo Holding on the first ascent of Savage Horse in 1999
Short routes, long runouts
The other two tours that Siebe Vanhee climbed in Bohuslän within the first two days are also among the absolute classics of the area. And even if they are a little less difficult to climb than Savage Horse, Rätt Lätt (7c+) and especially Minaret (7c+) require healthy nerves.
Video: Siebe Vanhee during his flash ascent of the Rätt Lätt route
For Siebe Vanhee, the Swedish trad climbing seems to trigger a real storm of enthusiasm: "Fantastic runout, beautiful climbing movements on a pure, exposed edge, followed by a technical dihedral," is how he praised the iconic Minaret line.
Video: Bird's eye view of the minaret line near Häller
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Credits: Cover picture Kyrre Buxrud