Emma Twyford climbs Trad test piece “Yma O Hyd” E10 7a

"Yma O Hyd" – Welsh for "still here." The line in the Ogwen Valley is currently considered the hardest trad climbing route in North Wales. With her ascent of Yma O Hyd, Twyford became the first British woman to climb an E10 redpoint.

Trad paradise North Wales 

The impressive mountain landscape around Snowdonia, the Ogwen Valley and the Llanberis Pass region offers a unique variety of rock types (slate, limestone, granite, quartzite, dolerite, rhyolite and sandstone) and climbing styles – from classic crack climbs to tough trad routes. 

Mission Impossible and Yma O Hyd

In 2024, James McHaffie made the first ascent of Yma O Hyd—the hardest trad route in North Wales. The route is a direct entry point to "Mission Impossible," an E9 7a first ascented by Neil Carson in 1996. It runs through very steep overhanging terrain with a roughly 7-meter-long runout. 

Yma O Hyd starts off with a difficult 7B boulder crux, which takes you into Mission Impossible with a good pump. The real crux of the line remains the approximately 7-meter-long runout in the upper half of Mission Impossible. 

Twyford's successes 

With her redpoint of Yma O Hyd, Twyford became the first woman to climb an E10 route in Great Britain. After redpointing Mission Impossible in the summer of 2024, Twyford set her sights on Yma O Hyd. Her initial attempts repeatedly failed at the crux of Mission Impossible, as the bouldering entry required considerable effort. 

For me, the difficult moves on Mission are definitely the deciding factor when climbing the direct route. The boulder-like start of Yma O Hyd is just as technically difficult, but the difference is that you're still fresh.

Emma Twyford

Emma has established herself as a versatile climber. In 2019, she became the first British woman to climb a 9a. Her ascent of "The Big Ben" on Lower Pen Trwyn in North Wales was captured on film and is considered a historic redpoint. 

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Credits: Cover photo Brad Reed

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