Conflict in Frankenjura - Alex Megos and Markus Bock declare war to each other

The route The Last Dance, set up by Julian Söhnlein and Alexander Megos, was destroyed a few days later after the first redpoint ascent by Alexander Megos. It is now known who removed the route. The latest episode of Actiontalk and LACRUX's BETA news show is dedicated to the German climbing area Frankenjura. Our program focuses not only on the conflict between Alex Megos, Markus Bock and Michael Ordnung, but also on the Frankenjura legend Kurt Albert.

The BETA news show is presented by Bächli Bergsport and Mammut

The climbing area Frankenjura has always been a focal point in climbing history and thus also a place of controversy. In 1976, Kurt Albert He first presented his idea of ​​the redpoint, laying the foundation for modern climbing. However, he also caused discontent.

As groundbreaking as his work for free climbing was - not all climbers of the 80s were pleased. On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of Albert's death, we look back on the charismatic figure.

Do today's generation of climbers still know what rotpunkt means and who Kurt Albert is?

In the meantime, his vision of free climbing has long since established itself, and climbing has developed into a popular sport. It makes us wonder: do people in todays climbing gyms even know who Kurt Albert is? What exactly is "red point"? We go for votes, but also talk to Tom Dauer, the author of the recently published Kurt Albert biography.

Kurt Albert - inventor of red point climbing. (Image: Martin Schepers)
Kurt Albert - inventor of red point climbing. (Image: Martin Schepers)

In Frankenjura the tatters are flying - climbing route of Megos got removed

It is the topic of the hour! Two weeks ago, Alex Megos announced that a new route he had first ascended in the Franconian Jura (drilled by Julian Soehnlein), was removed by unknown persons.

Enough is enough. It can not go on like this.

Alexander Megos.

“Enough is enough,” posted Alex Megos on Instagram. Of course, we wanted to know more. In an exclusive interview with Action Talk TV he says what is going wrong in the Franconian Jura.

These bolts have been removed from The Last Dance. (Image frankenjura.com)

Markus Bock and Michael Ordnung criticize Alex Megos' route

Also with the Franconian legend Markus Bock we speak exclusively, he takes the opposing position in the dispute megos A petty war is raging between the two on Instagram, something between childish and threatening. We asked what's going on.

It is now known who removed the bolts.

And last but not least: Another exclusive interview is waiting for you - with none other than the man who took out the new tour for Megos and Söhnlein himself.

NewscShow BETA - Episode 3

Bringing light into the darkness

The new IKO Core headlamp from Petzl does not bring journalistic light into the dark, but rather when climbing the rock. Despite the 500 lumens strong lighting, it weighs only 79 grams and is therefore a real lightweight. We recommend the lamp for sport climbing and bouldering. You can find details about the lamp in a separate article that will be published in the coming days.

Light and incredibly bright: the IKO Core headlamp from Petzl
Light and incredibly bright: the IKO Core headlamp from Petzl

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Actiontalk TV accompanies the two athletes Yannick Glatthard and Silvan Schüpbach on their new and adventurous multi-pitch route called “Ying Yang” on the north face of the Gross Wellhorn.

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