A few weeks ago, the three professional climbers Roger Schäli, Nina Caprez and Sean Villanueva opened a new and difficult route on the notorious Geneva pillar on the Eiger north face. The makers of Actiontalk TV have accompanied the three in opening up the route Merci La Vie. This resulted in unique shots in vertical virgin territory.
The line is an old project of Roger Schäli, She pulls left from Deep Blue Sea high, through the left central part of the Geneva pillar. After drilling the first length last year, Roger stood in front of a steep, overhanging wall that looked extremely heavy. He's coming this summer Nina Caprez and Sean Villanueva found the perfect teammates for his project.
Together they opened in two days in two attacks a new test piece on this famous wall. The difficulties are high, also must be repeaters have a good deal of self-confidence and courage; The distances between the Bolts are often far and many intermediate backups must be placed themselves.
Roger roars through a boulderlastse rope length in the degree 7c and Sean manages to commit one of the key lengths in the range 8a or even 8b. Then dark clouds are rising. Sean bouldered the second key length and makes in the middle of rallying storm another red dot attempt. He masters the bouldering spot in lightning and thunder. But further up the wall is already completely wet and so flies Sean back to the state.
Thus, a complete redpoint ascent of Merci la Vie is still pending. It should succeed next summer. Then a topo is created.
Video: Climbing the route Merci La Vie on the Eiger north face
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Roger Schäli is convinced that magnesium is not just magnesium. He relies on sport climbing as well as in alpine multi-pitch tours or big-wall routes Chalk from FrictionLabs, His favorite variety: Bam Bam
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Credits: Title picture and text Action Talk TV