Tanner Bauer and Chris Deuto tackle the challenging route Doubloons (8c) in the mountains of Colorado. The time that the two climbing friends spend on the aesthetic line allows them to experience climbing in a new way: as an art form in the sense of a spiritual journey rather than a performance-oriented sport.
Experience report by Chris Deuto
"Why do you climb?" Any person who calls themselves a "climber" and considers it the most important aspect of their personality has been asked this question at some point. In my experience, most who have dedicated their lives to the vertical cannot provide a simple explanation.
The answer lies buried deep in the heart of every individual, and to articulate this concept is to rise into the world of philosophy. Somewhere at the core of my own ideology lies the magical feeling of inspiration. It is the light that ignites my wildest ambitions and most intense motivation. My answer begins with the term inspiration. And nowhere else in the world have I seen a single-pitch route more inspiring than Duplicates (8c).
As aesthetic as it is challenging
Doubloons is the pinnacle of aesthetic perfection. When I first looked down the ridge where the climbing route stands proudly, I entered into a relationship with the route that would last for several years. I was excited at the thought of one day experiencing the natural beauty of this line.
I wanted to struggle with exposure and feel the wind as I balanced on the edge of the razor-sharp ridge.
I wanted to stand on the top of the narrow tower, overwhelmed by the size and immensity of the alpine valley I overlooked. But above all, I wanted to conquer this unimaginably smooth rock structure.
Change of perspective: Spiritual journey instead of competitive sport
The challenge that Doubloons offered was my driving inspiration. Projects that push you to the limits of what is possible are more than just rock climbing. They symbolize a journey into the depths of the soul, an overcoming of self-doubt.
For the first two years of attempting doubloons, my mind was less prepared than my body. Pessimistic about the difficulty of the line and the effort required (both physical and mental), I made little progress. Self-doubt took over.
In the summer of 2023, however, my climbing philosophy began to mature. I was now more inclined to tackle the route for the personal challenge rather than the difficulty. I began to see climbing as an art - a spiritual journey rather than a performance-oriented sport. My progress with Doubloons reflected this change in perspective.
Enrichment goes far beyond mere inspection
On the day I climbed the route, I felt no pressure or fear of failure. Instead, I embraced the vertical dance in harmony with the power of my inner attitude. As I left behind key points and moves that had previously represented very real personal setbacks, I knew what it felt like to overcome something deep within myself.
And yet, even after standing at the summit and realizing the magnitude of the experience, I felt a deep appreciation for what Doubloons had become outside of my personal life.
The same aspects that motivated me to climb this route brought together a whole group of people, a community.
Not only other climbers who seek such experiences, but also free spirits who are inspired by the line to show the world its beauty. Through their eyes, many more will share this moment.
My relationship with the Doubloons started with inspiration and became so much more. With each attempt, each new friend, and each sweltering sunset spent on the route, I began to better understand my answer to this impossible question.
Experiences like the ones I had at Doubloons are why I climb. They are metaphors for life - an expansion of consciousness on so many levels.
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Credits: Cover picture Sohi Studios