This summer, Seb Bouin visited the Saint Auban climbing area not far from the Verdon Gorge. In classic Seb style, he quickly found potential for first ascents and, of course, a few king lines.
Saint Auban is a new climbing area near the Verdon Gorge. Until a few years ago it was rather unknown. Recently, however, a lot of new routes have been opened, which has increased its popularity. Seb Bouin The top French climber took a rather pragmatic approach: "First I climbed the existing routes, then I started drilling inspiring new lines."
The place is perfect for hot days. The caves and the potential for difficult projects amazed me.
Seb Bouin
Jamming Destruction: A new Kingline emerges
His first big project was Jamming Destruction, a beautiful and complex line. It starts on a slanting bow in a roof reminiscent of Big Island in Fontainebleau. Seb Bouin estimates the start to be around 9a+/b.
Then you reach a rest point where you have to put on a crack glove, which is very useful for the crux. "I had to jam my left fist in a diagonal crack in order to jump to a sloper with my right hand."
This key section was really demanding and difficult to assess when you put the moves together. After that comes a nice endurance section that leads to the stand.
Jamming Destruction is a tough but majestically beautiful line and I hope more people try it in the future - it really deserves attention.
Seb Bouin
Bouin's toughest flash yet
In Saint Auban, the Frenchman also completed his hardest flash ascent to date. This route is the main line of the sector and traverses almost the entire rock from right to left. Although strong climbers have already attempted it, no one has yet managed to complete the project.
"One day, while I was warming up on some 8a/b routes, Adrien Boulon, who had bolted the route, approached me. He suggested I try to flash the project," says Seb Bouin. "At the time, it was estimated at 9a, which was definitely above my flash level. But he persisted, and I finally put on my shoes for a flash attempt."
He was surprised at how good he felt. "It was 100% my climbing style. I managed all the key sections without making any mistakes and was able to rest well at the rest points. Mentally I was very relaxed, which enabled me to take risks at the right moment."
On the last section, which was supposed to be easier, Bouin got a little nervous. The rock was a little dirty and the realization that he might actually flash the route put him under pressure. But everything went well.
I was surprised to be able to flash a route like that on a first ascent - normally it's not my thing, but this time it worked.
Seb Bouin
"I think the difficulty level of the route is about 8c+." At the end of his trip, Seb Bouin bolted another project with a crazy jump. "I didn't have enough time to complete the climb, but I'll be back."
That might interest you
- Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”
- Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”
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Credits: Cover picture Clarisse Bombard