Fabi Buhl and Melissa Le Nevé fly to the Massif des Écrins, climb Mitchka, and finish their tour with a flight back to civilization. A project amidst rock, down, and thermals – with the new deuter Guide and the Astro Pro.
Advertorial in collaboration with deuter
There are still places in the Alps without significant infrastructure. The Parc des Écrins is one such place. No ski lifts, no roads leading to the base of the cliffs, just granite, glaciers, and a feeling of seclusion that is becoming increasingly rare.
There, on the south face of the Meije, the Mitchka route traces an almost straight line from the glacier to the summit. 800 meters of rock, difficulty up to 7a, well-protected yet alpine enough to command respect. For Fabi Buhl and Melissa Le Nevé, it's the goal of a project that combines three disciplines into a cycle: flying up, climbing, bivouacking, rappelling from the summit, and flying back down.
45 kilometers of air
The day doesn't begin for the climbing team at the base of the wall, but in Puy Aillaud – 45 kilometers as the crow flies from Le Meije. Fabi and Melissa launch their paragliders and use the thermals to fly across the national park. Not the easiest flight, according to Fabi Buhl.
It's quite possible that you won't land where you intend to. You could land somewhere in between.
Melissa Le Nevé
“Cross-country flying is like chess. You really have to think through your moves before you make them,” says Melissa Le Nevé. On this day, a north wind is blowing at 30 to 35 km/h—not the easiest conditions, but the Meije awaits. Around 14 p.m., the two land at the base of the line.
Everything must go in
The paragliders are folded up, the backpacks back on their shoulders. The flying phase is over, the alpine phase begins. Because they landed late, Fabi and Melissa decide to only climb the Arête Promaset to the bivouac site on the first day – a pragmatic plan that allows them to tackle the Mitchka fresh the next day.
In a climb-sleep-fly project, the backpack becomes the central question. Climbing gear, sleeping bag, food – everything has to fit, and everything has to remain portable on the wall. Fabi uses the new Deuter Guide 34+6, Melissa the SL version with 32+6 liters, which has a women's-specific fit with a shorter back.
The Alpine back system, with its ergonomic PE back panel and spring steel frame, keeps the backpack in shape – no matter how unevenly it's loaded. Side compression straps pull the pack close to the body. In a chimney or an exposed traverse, this can make the difference between safe climbing and constantly having to counterbalance your weight.
A band over nothingness
The bivouac is situated on a ledge that offers just enough space for two. And a breathtaking view. Fabi unrolls the Deuter Astro Pro 600, Melissa the Astro Pro 800 SL – the warmer version with a limit temperature of -16°C. The ThermoStretch seams of both sleeping bags pull the inner lining close to the body, reducing the amount of space that needs to be heated by 25 percent. Thanks to PeakDesign construction in the upper body and PowerBox segmentation in the foot area, the down is evenly distributed. The two settle in comfortably on the narrow ledge. The sunset bathes the Parc des Écrins in red.
Being there with Fabi and enjoying the beauty of nature together – such a special moment.
Melissa Le Nevé
"The Summit is calling!"
The next morning, six pitches of Mitchka plus the summit ridge awaited them. The two traversed the glacier and began their ascent. They alternated leading and following. "Mitchka—it's challenging, but a kind of new-school climbing," Melissa explained. "A few bolts, a few pitons, a real alternative to classic climbing. Trad and terrain. That's how I would describe it. I really enjoyed climbing this route." They reached the summit, rappelled down, and began their flight back from the glacier.
It's a very special feeling of freedom to fly away from the mountain. You don't have to descend anymore. You're no longer an ant. You're a bird again.
Melissa Le Nevé
Here's the link to the film:
THE PRODUCTS
deuter Guide 34+6 / Guide 32+6 SL Alpine backpack with Alpine back system, ergonomic PE back panel, and spring steel frame. The Guide 34+6 weighs approximately 1210 g, with a minimum weight (after removing the back panel, lid pocket, and hip belt) of approximately 650 g. The Guide 32+6 SL weighs approximately 1150 g, with a minimum weight of approximately 620 g. Removable lid and hip fins, ice axe, ski, and rope attachments, helmet net, 100% recycled ripstop main material. bluesign®, Green Button, and ClimatePartner certified. PFAS-free.
deuter Astro Pro 600 / Astro Pro 800 SL Down sleeping bag with 750 fill power RDS-certified down, ThermoStretch seams, PeakDesign and PowerBox segmentation, ThermoHood contoured hood, and ErgoFoot Pro 3D footbox. Limit temperature: -12°C (600) or -16°C (800). Weight from 990 g (600). bluesign®, Green Button, and ClimatePartner certified. Manufactured without PFAS.
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