mountaineering
In recent years, the South Tyrolean stand has become “best practice” in alpine stand construction. But what exactly is a South Tyrolean booth? And what are the advantages or are there possibly also disadvantages? Chris Semmel has dealt intensively with the topic and also asked the inventors.
Climbing
Anti-reverse pulleys were developed for crevasse rescue, pulley blocks and self-rescue. Every now and then you can see experienced alpinists belaying with the Micro Traxion. But how dangerous is this application?
mountaineering
The north-west face of the Douves Blanches is a largely unknown but impressive face in Val d'Arolla. A week ago, Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel were able to climb a - at least partially - new route through the approximately 400 meter high wall. The alpinists call their tour Frigo-Combo.
mountaineering
In October, the Swiss professional alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Jonas Schild, together with Andy Schnarf, made the first ascent of the "Kiti Nose" (4950 m above sea level) in the Indian state of Uttarakhand. The three alpinists christened the 350 meter long route with a difficulty level of 7b Between two parties.
mountaineering
The Swiss professional alpinist Roger Schäli opens the trad route Tierra del Fuego (A2+, 6c) on the Roda Val della Neve in Bergell alone over five days. The demanding line – only equipped with bolts at the belay – follows a system of cracks in the right part of the wall.
mountaineering
The professional climber and alpinist Filip Babicz sets a new speed record in the Mont Blanc massif: He scales the Grand Capucin rope-free in just 49 minutes. The standard time for the 570 meter high wall is eight hours.
mountaineering
We spoke to Edu Marin about the Eternal Flame route as well as the special constellation on site.
mountaineering
Last Sunday, Laura Tiefenthaler and Babsi Vigl managed to link up the five peaks of the Drei Zinnen massif. Like Simon Gietl when he went it alone in winter 2020, the two alpinists climbed the traverse from west to east.
mountaineering
The Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder repeats the heavily overhanging Huber route Bellavista (8b+, 500m) on the western pinnacle. Before that he climbed the alpine classic Weg durch den Fisch (7b+, 37 SL) on the south face of the Marmolada and the Via Italia (8a, 280m) on Piz Ciavazes.
mountaineering
Eternal Flame is one of the most difficult high-altitude big wall routes. Only a few dare to think of a free ascent. Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher made their dream come true and became the third rope team to free climb the line in just six days.
mountaineering
These are the advantages of the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust self-belay sling on multi-rope tours or via ferratas.
Climbing
At the beginning of the month, the Austrian Philipp Geisler managed an onsight ascent of the famous Dolomites route "Weg durch den Fisch" (8+/9-, 37SL) on the Marmolada south face. In an interview he talks about the ascent of the alpine classic.
mountaineering
We show the advantages and disadvantages of individual stand construction techniques and the importance of the angle of the compensation anchorage.
mountaineering
If you lose your abseiling device on the multi-pitch tour, you should know this alpine hack. We introduce you to a technique with a half-mast throw that offers more safety and, thanks to a trick, hardly ever cranks.
Climbing
The summer season is drawing to a close. Climbing finches, ropes and carabiners wander into the cellar during the days. So that there are no nasty surprises next year, we'll show you how to properly clean and store your equipment - with practical tips from professionals Katherine Choong and Roger Schäli.