From rock to steep ice lines: For many sport climbers, getting started with ice climbing can be quite intimidating. Different techniques, different equipment, completely new conditions. But with the right setup and some know-how, getting started is surprisingly straightforward. At the "Eis Total" festival in the Pitztal Valley, we from the LACRUX editorial team, together with Black Diamond, tested how the transition from rock to ice climbing works and what really matters. Our editor Gwen shares her impressions with you.
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The Ice Total event took place for the 25th time from January 23rd to 24th, 2025, in the Taschach Gorge in the Pitztal Valley. Impressive icefalls and various climbing stations invited participants to enjoy two days of ice climbing in the gorge. More than 200 enthusiastic climbers gathered there to take their first steps on the ice, refine their technique, or get valuable tips from mountain guides and professionals. Test equipment from leading brands, including Black Diamond, could be borrowed on-site free of charge. This allowed beginners to familiarize themselves with various ice tools and crampons, while advanced climbers had the opportunity to test the latest products on the market.
First steps on the ice
Artificial icefalls wind their way through the Taschach Gorge, each offering a variety of top-rope routes. Steep ice, dihedrals, and even easier, positively inclined routes have been established here. It's a truly impressive sight. Cones and columns have formed down the rock face, creating a picturesque playground for climbing enthusiasts. You can hear ice axes and crampons cutting their way into the frozen water as the cold stream babbles softly through the valley.
Before we even start climbing, understanding is paramount: Mountain guide and Black Diamond CEO Jonathan Hillborn and ice climbing pro Markus Urbanowski, who coach us throughout the day, first explain what's really important. How do you move with crampons? How do you maintain a stable stance? How do you use ice tools correctly without wasting unnecessary energy?
The discipline has less to do with brute strength than I expected. Clean climbing, a steady stance, and controlled movements are crucial. The first steps up the steep ice feel completely unfamiliar – no friction climbing or using your toes to find good footholds. The front points have to dig firmly into the ice, and your heels should ideally always point downwards to find good grip and maintain a secure stance. Ultimately, you quickly get the hang of the technique, but it still feels strange. The ice tools – when placed correctly – make excellent jugs. Pump is inevitable, though, and I'm fairly certain that anyone who spends a lot of time ice climbing for a season will return to rock climbing stronger. Ice climbing is also a great exercise in relaxation: the calmer the movements, the more efficient – and the more relaxed the climbing feels.
In summary: Important points for ice climbing
Rest instead of strength
stable body position
precise climbing with crampons
deliberate placement of ice tools
Basic Alpine knowledge for ice skating: Exciting workshops
In fact, we don't just learn how to climb the ice on top rope. After the first few lines, we delve deeper into alpine techniques: Jonathan explains how to correctly drive ice screws into the ice, what's important when building an anchor, and how to set up ice hourglasses for belaying or rappelling. This is supplemented with information on equipment.
Properly placing ice screws
A well-placed ice screw in compact ice can withstand loads of 10 kN to over 20 kN (approx. 1.000 kg – 2.000 kg). It could therefore support the weight of a small car. To place it, the screw is positioned almost perpendicular to the ice surface and driven in with pressure between hip and chest height. The screw is then driven into the ice with a controlled twisting motion of the wrist, using a small indentation as a starting point if necessary. Once it has engaged for a few turns, the crank is unfolded and the screw is driven in to a depth of approximately 0,5–1 cm before the crank is folded back in and the quickdraw is clipped into the loop.
Stand building
At belay stations in ice, one screw should always remain unloaded. This is called a central anchor with a series connection. In practice, this has proven effective for multi-pitch ice climbing: The lower screw bears the main load, the upper one serves as an unloaded redundancy and is placed at least 40 cm apart in solid ice. A so-called "soft eye" is suitable as the central anchor point. It serves as a redundant, fixed attachment point for both self-belay and belay device, thus eliminating the need for a central carabiner.
The Abalakov ice hourglass
The ice hourglass serves as a secure anchor point in the ice. It can replace an ice screw or be used for safe rappelling. To create it, two ice screw holes are drilled at an angle of approximately 45–60 degrees to each other, so that they meet inside the ice. Then, using an Abalakov hook or wire, a cord or sling is threaded through the resulting tunnel and tied into a closed loop. We tested the hold of our ice hourglasses with a sling over a rather cold river. We were lucky they all passed; it could have been freezing.
Equipment & clothing – what do you really need?
A completely new medium – ice. If you generally enjoy spending time in the mountains, you probably already have some equipment at home that's suitable for ice climbing. We've compiled a list of our gear that was perfect for getting started with ice climbing.
Technical equipment
- Kletterhelm: When ice climbing, you can easily lose a lot of weight, especially if you're just starting out. I had the Vapor helmet with me. It's lightweight and comfortable to wear, and the adjustable straps allow for a great fit.
- harnessMy Technician is an ideal all-round climbing harness for every season. The harness is lightweight and adapts to the body thanks to the adjustable leg loops – even over three layers of clothing. It also features four Ice Clipper openings, which are essential for multi-pitch climbs.
- cramponThe Sabretooth crampons feature vertical front points that enable very direct power transmission on hard and steep ice. The rigid construction ensures precise footing and high stability, even under frontal loads. This means more control and less energy loss, especially for beginners.
- Ice toolsThe Hydra ice tools are designed with a balanced construction, enabling precise striking with minimal dispersion on the ice. The harmonious distribution of weight and center of gravity makes it easier for beginners to place the picks into the ice without excessive force. The pick's geometry promotes clean penetration and reliable placement, resulting in technically sound movements from the very beginning.
- GlovesThe Punisher Gloves offer a balanced combination of insulation and dexterity, which is crucial in ice climbing. The material allows direct contact with ice tools without restricting grip control. At the same time, they reliably protect against the cold, as belaying with frozen fingers is rather difficult.
- Shoes: Sturdy mountaineering boots of category D – they provide the necessary support for crampons and ensure precision when climbing. Boots that are only partially crampon-compatible (i.e., category C) won't do you any favors. In my opinion, secure footing is absolutely essential when ice climbing.
Apparel
You warm up quickly on the wall (climbing in frozen water is quite strenuous, especially the first few times), but your body cools down again while belaying. A layering system, which can be adjusted depending on the activity, proves useful here.
- Baselayer: A shirt and trousers made of merino wool or synthetic performance wear. Cotton should be avoided here, as it retains moisture and causes you to feel cold. You sweat less when ice climbing than when sport climbing, but moisture is still the biggest factor in keeping you cold.
- Insulation layer: A fleece or a light down jacket to stay warm.
- Outer layerAbsolutely essential for ice climbing! Ice splinters, water drips, and you can get snowed in while belaying. For my jacket and pants, the Black Diamond Highline Stretch Shell and Recon Stretch Pants have proven invaluable. They offer protection from the elements while their lightweight and soft fabric allows for unrestricted movement.
- Additional warmth for securing and breaksBelaying involves standing motionless in the cold for extended periods, causing the body to cool down quickly. The Mission Down 4000M Parka offers excellent warmth and reliable protection against the cold.
Additionally important
- Hat/headband and buff
- A pot of tea or coffee and a snack for breaks.
Anyone can ice climb? – Conclusion
The transition from rock to ice is definitely bumpy. Ice is a completely new medium and hardly comparable to other disciplines. Nevertheless, the basic movements can be grasped surprisingly quickly, and this learning process was incredibly enjoyable for me.
My biggest lesson learned: Stay calm. Always. Haste makes absolutely no difference on ice – quite the opposite. Stiff movements or panic only make everything more difficult. Finding stable positions was really hard for me at first, which is probably a classic beginner's problem. Taking two deep breaths, regrouping, and continuing to climb was the most helpful thing in those situations. I wanted to improve quickly and focused intensively on the technique. My assessments were often wrong: Some hooks felt secure and slipped right out – "Will that hold?" was definitely the most repeated phrase that weekend! – while others seemed completely shaky and held perfectly, as our coach Markus repeatedly assured me from below. Learning when a hook is truly effective obviously requires experience. Lots of experience.
For anyone who loves climbing, ice climbing is definitely an enriching experience. Eis Total provides the perfect setting to give frozen waterfalls a chance AND test the latest products from leading companies. At times, I have to admit, I didn't know whether to laugh or cry, but in Markus's wise words: "That's ice climbing for you." So, to everyone out there who's thinking about trying the coldest climbing discipline: it's worth a try. For us, it certainly won't be our last ice adventure.
You might be interested in:
- Ice climbing pro tips: Assess ice conditions and assess them on site
- From plastic to rock: How Petra Klingler masters the change
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Credits: Cover image: Lukas Riedelsperger