First ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté on the Aiguille de l'Amône

On February 27 and 28, 2019, Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach opened a challenging mixed route at the Aiguille de l'Amône. So far, only one route has been opened through the east face of the mountain. The border summit with France offers good granite and stands in the shadow of the famous mountains in nearby Chamonix. The two mountaineers left no traces on their route and were rewarded with an impressive adventure.

A contribution by Silvan Schüpbach

After we decided to forego a planned Patagonia trip, we made plans for adventure on the doorstep. We also dropped a project on the Eiger north face after my friend Julian Zanker lost his life in the Heckmaier route.
So the Aiguille de l'Amône became our plan C. Nevertheless, I liked the idea immediately - a mountain that I had never heard of and granite that promises to be secured without bolts.

We got on the ski and got on the 27.2. get in at noon. The start was anything but smooth. In the first pitch I slipped in the climb and sprained my thumb. When securing the next pitch, I hit a piece of ice in the face and missed a few lacerations. I told myself that we were looking for adventure and found it now. So I bit my teeth and we kept climbing.

The bivouac on a snow shoulder was romantic but largely uncomfortable. The next day (28.2.2019) we finished the route without incident. The descent on the northern flank offered good kicking snow.

Topo: L'accidentelle et l'accidenté on the Aiguille de l'Amône

Route information "L'accidentelle et l'accidenté"

The route name (roughly translated as "accidental and accidental") refers to the incidents before and during the on-site visit
Aiguille de l'Amône (569'240, 86'582), east face
The route follows a north-exposed ramp system. Emergency exit to the northern flank is possible at various points. Note avalanche danger!
Route length 850m
Difficulty M7, 45 °
Material: 2 x 60m Ropes, Slips, 2 Rack Cams # 0.3-3, 1x # 4, C3 0-1, 2x Pecker