The 8000m winter season is just around the corner and three teams with ambitious goals are in the starting blocks: Alex Txikon is making a second attempt at Annapurna, Simone Moro is planning a winter ascent in alpine style on Manaslu with Nima Rinji Sherpa and Jost Kobuch is attempting to climb the West Ridge of Everest solo for the fourth time.
Climbing eight-thousanders in winter is reserved for a small elite of top mountaineers. This hard-core breed of alpinists includes the Italian Simone Moro and the Basque Alex Txikon. They and their climbing partners have made ambitious plans for the upcoming winter season.
First 8000m winter ascent in alpine style
For his latest goal, high-altitude mountaineering veteran Simone Moro is teaming up with 18-year-old Nepalese mountaineer Nima Rinji Sherpa, who rose to fame a few months ago as youngest person on all 14 eight-thousanders.
When he was asked to be part of the team, he didn't have to think long, says the Nepali. "When Simone approached me with this project, it was an immediate 'yes' for me. I am overjoyed and of course safety will always be our top priority."
Together they have set themselves the goal of something that has never been done before in the history of winter high-altitude mountaineering: an 8000-meter ascent in alpine style. Moro and Rinji Sherpa are currently preparing to climb the 8163-meter-high Manaslu in the next few weeks.
Annapurna the Second
Alex Txikon and his team are also in the middle of preparations. The Basque has joined forces with the Italian Mattia Conte, the Pole Waldemar Kowalewski and the Pakistani Sajid Sadpara to attempt a winter ascent of Annapurna.
Txikon had already attempted to climb the 8091 meter high peak last winter with a strong team, but had to abandon the expedition prematurely.
The four mountaineers are currently acclimatizing on the Ama Dablam before tackling the main goal of their expedition later in December with the start of the calendar winter: the Annapurna. The 8000-meter peak in the north of central Nepal is known for its extreme conditions, as the video above shows more than impressively.
Altitude record on the West Ridge in sight
Jost Kobusch intends once again to climb Everest alone via its challenging West Ridge. He had already tried to put this plan into action in the winters of 2019/20 and 2021/22. His most recent attempt last winter failed due to a back injury that he sustained shortly before the start of the expedition.
In his fourth attempt, Jost Kobusch is aiming to break the existing altitude record on the West Ridge of Everest. In the winter of 1983, a French team reached a height of 7500 meters. "I would like to go higher and explore the upper part of the route." He sees his previous attempts as an important source of experience: "I spent a lot of time on the route, learned a lot and improved my skills."
That might interest you
- 8000s: After David Göttler, Simone Moro also breaks off – what is Kobusch doing?
- Jost Kobusch: First solo winter ascent of Denali via the Messner Couloir
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Credits: Cover picture Alex Txikon