On October 2, 2025, the two French alpinists Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean made the first ascent of the remote Anidesh Chuli, a previously unexplored 6.808 m high mountain in the Eastern Himalayas.
No fixed ropes, no Sherpa support, no supplemental oxygen
The Anidesh Chuli, also called »White Wave«, lies on the edge of the KangchenjungaMassif, opposite Jannu. The two peaks share a base camp, making Anidesh Chuli a logical destination for the strong French duo for an acclimatization tour. The main project of their expedition is the east face of Jannu.
Védrines and Jeans chose their route via the North Ridge and climbed the 1.150 meters from the advanced base camp to the summit in just one day, in alpine style.
Second attempt at Jannu for Védrines
The French mountain guide and alpinist was already at Jannu Base Camp last year and attempted the previously unclimbed east face of the 7.711-meter-high mountain. Védrines and his climbing partner Jean's goal is the previously unreached east summit of Jannu.
This peak fascinates us. It's beautiful, remote, and difficult to climb.
Benjamin Vedrines
Benjamin Védrines is known for his records on two eight-thousanders. In 2022, he broke the previous record for an ascent of Broad peak without supplemental oxygen, completing it in just 7 hours and 28 minutes. He then became the first person to launch a paraglider from the summit of Broad Peak and fly to base camp—just in time for breakfast.
As well on K2 In 2024 he set a new record: solo and without additional oxygen, he reached the summit in just 10 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds.
Benjamin Védrines in an interview:
Why did you choose the previously unclimbed Anidesh Chuli to acclimatize?
Benjamin VedrinesSince the summit is located directly above Base Camp, it seemed perfectly logical to climb it, especially since we knew the first ascent had yet to be made. We also knew that several teams had attempted the summit before us, but without success.
We wanted to reach a higher acclimatization point than the 6.200 meters we normally do. That was the most important thing for us.
The biggest challenge here is to get as high as possible. It quickly becomes technical, and the environment is very wild, so that's not easy.
The Anidesh Chuli met all our requirements:
• We were able to ascend higher to best prepare for Jannu.
• It was a chance to achieve a great feat and climb an untouched peak in a single day.
• The peace and quiet outside of base camp was a pleasure for us – without any other people.
How long did you plan your route on Anidesh Chuli?
We were here last year and attempted to climb the north face of Jannu. We had to turn back at 6700 m because our climbing partner Leo Billon suffering from acute altitude sickness
This was partly due to our rapid acclimatization, as we had to take advantage of an early weather window and therefore joined the line earlier than planned.
When we arrived back at base camp, it was immediately clear to us that we absolutely had to climb higher to acclimatize before attempting it again. So, it had actually been our plan since our last attempt on Jannu. It also offered us the opportunity to climb a beautiful peak and secure a great success. Coming home with such memories is something extraordinary—and it makes it easier to accept a possible failure later on.
Can you describe what it feels like to be the first person to stand on a 6808m high peak?
It's an incredible feeling to arrive up there. At first, I didn't think about the fact that we were the first to reach the summit, but rather about how it felt to climb this beautiful mountain. It's breathtaking, and those are memories that will last forever. Then, of course, there's the exploratory side of being the first. That's what makes it exciting, and I love it. Especially because we don't get the chance to do that anymore in the Alps. We really enjoyed this privilege!
What do you plan to do differently this year than last year when you attempt Jannu?
For the ascent, we'll stick to the strategy we had planned back then: We'll try to reach the summit in three days. That would be really good. The only difference from last year is that we plan to sleep at the base of the wall instead of setting off directly from Base Camp. This should save us energy. Our biggest concern is the entire section between 7.000 m and 7.468 m. There's a long snow ridge that's very steep at the beginning. If the snow is too deep, it could force us to turn back.
Do you have any idea when an opportunity might arise at Jannu?
The weather is currently extremely unstable, and a lot of snow is forecast—more than one and a half meters in total. The weather is expected to improve around October 10, albeit with strong winds.
Expeditions are never easy, but I'm used to it. However, we have to remain cautious when it comes to long-term forecasts. Above all, it's about being patient while remaining determined. At the moment, we meet all the requirements.
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Credits cover photo: Benjamin Vedrines