A historic moment for Pakistan's mountain guides. On November 29th, the Karakoram Mountain Guides Association (KMGA) was officially launched in Skardu. is the first nationwide organization founded by mountaineers themselves and dedicated exclusively to their interests.
A new era for Pakistani mountaineering
Several hundred mountaineering professionals gathered at a hotel in Skardu for the founding event. Experienced high-altitude climbers, professional mountain guides, and promising young talents traveled from all over the country. Following the event, the KMGA described the atmosphere as enthusiastic and full of hope. Furthermore, according to the association's press release, the participants clearly reaffirmed their support for a unified, national platform.
The full-day program began in the morning and offered opportunities for open discussions, tea breaks, a shared lunch, and in-depth discussions. The focus was on the future structure of the KMGA, operational procedures, and the challenges that guides in Pakistan have faced for years. Its founding is considered historic, as it marks the first time an association of Pakistani mountaineers has been formed – independent, local, and with considerable professional experience.
The participants spoke openly and passionately about improvements in training and safety standards, better working conditions, fair pay, and international representation. An important step was the inclusive composition of the committees: women were explicitly included, and seats were allocated across various mountain regions. The committee consists of 17 experienced high-altitude mountaineers and mountain guides, all highly respected in the community. The mountaineers elected Sirbaz Khan to head the association. He made history in 2024 by becoming the first Pakistani to complete all 14 eight-thousanders. In May of this year, Khan announced that he has now also climbed all of these peaks without supplemental oxygen.
I am deeply honored and grateful that you have elected me as the first President of the KMGA. I will do my best to fulfill the tasks assigned to me and my team, but we will need your support.
Sirbaz Khan, President of the KMGA
Why the KMGA is a milestone
Although Pakistan is one of the world's most important mountaineering nations, until now no organization existed to professionally represent the rights, safety, and training of mountaineers. Many high-altitude porters, guides, and expedition staff have worked for decades under extreme conditions – often without insurance, structured training, or national recognition. This is precisely where the KMGA comes in. The association's goals include improving rescue systems in high mountain regions, establishing certified training programs, and cooperating with international mountain guide associations. Furthermore, this encompasses aligning local standards with international norms, as well as introducing nationwide insurance, medical care, and fair working conditions. Finally, the KMGA promotes responsible and sustainable tourism in all mountain regions of the country.
Karakoram Mountain Guides Association – The realization of a dream that has driven me for the last 22 years
Sirbaz Khan, President of the KMGA
Consciously into the future
With newfound self-confidence: For decades, strong local mountaineers worked in the shadow of Western expeditions, but now a new generation of young Pakistani alpinists is pursuing their own goals. They are not only opening new routes in their own country, but are also increasingly appearing as entrepreneurs in the expedition business.
Against this backdrop, the founding of the Karakoram Mountain Guides Association appears as a logical consequence – and at the same time as a turning point. With transparent elections, regional representation, and a clear commitment to professionalism, the KMGA sends a strong signal: Mountain guides and high-altitude workers in Pakistan are structurally strengthened and given a voice that is heard both nationally and internationally.
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Credits: Images: KMGA